Intelligent Travel

Día de los Muertos

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Meg Weaver, our senior researcher and resident expert on all things español, gives us the deets on the Day of the Dead.

As the macabre spectacle that is Halloween wraps itself up, it's time to celebrate El Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) this November 1st and 2nd. One of Mexico's most important holidays, the Day of the Dead originates in pre-Hispanic indigenous traditions spanning at least 2,500 years.

Unlike Halloween's focus on the frightening and scary, Day of the Dead is almost like a Mexican Memorial Day during which families gather to remember their recently departed and assemble an ofrenda (offering) in the form of an altar, filled with the favorite foods and drinks of the deceased, wax candles to represent their soul, water to quench their thirst, and papel picado of various vibrant colors.

Many families head to the cemetery on the Day of the Dead on November 1st to welcome deceased children back from Mictlan (land of the dead) and on November 2nd to commune with deceased adults also returning, for one day, from Mictlan. During this time, the cemetery takes on an almost festive air.

Mysticism blends with mariachis playing and people dancing. Copal, a resinous sap, is burned. People place calaveras (skulls) made of sugar, often emblazoned with the deceased's name, on the ofrenda tables. A black humor pervades the space as yellow and orange cempasúchitl (marigold) petals are scattered about. (This video captures some of the icons of the Day of the Dead.)

Nobel Prize-winning Mexican writer and poet Octavio Paz quipped that Mexicans don't mind getting up close and personal with death; in fact, the Mexican "...chases after it [death], mocks it, courts it, hugs it, sleeps with it; it is his favorite plaything and his most lasting love." Ironically, the Day of the Dead in Mexico is a celebration of life, an acknowledgement of death as a fact, and a culmination, of life.

Wallace J. Nichols on Turtles... and Tacos

Wallace J. Nichols (right) and Jeffrey Seminoff release an adult female hawksbill sea turtle with a satellite transmitter in El Salvador

While fact-checking an upcoming story on the pros and cons of development in Baja California, Senior Researcher Meg Weaver stumbled upon the story of Adelita, a loggerhead turtle who migrated nearly 7,500 miles from Baja, California to Japan in 1996. Conservationist, academic, and activist Dr. Wallace J. Nichols helped pin down the facts of Adelita's astonishing journey and took some time to tell IT about his current projects, what he's passionate about, and where to find Baja's legendary fish tacos.

Can you tell us a bit about the work you've done with the California Academy of Sciences?

I've been a research associate at the California Academy of Sciences [in San Francisco] since 1999. CAS just reopened Sept. 27 as the greenest museum in the world. It is spectacular. I can't imagine a better place to be associated with, as CAS has a great history of sea turtle research and is the center of natural history education for our coast.

How did your interest in and love of turtles begin?

It started when I was a kid, chasing animals in the creeks and hills. We used to catch snapping turtles and paint numbers on their shells and release them. When we recaptured turtles with numbers, we'd figure out the size of the population using simple algebra. Essentially that's what we do now with sea turtles in the Pacific!

What draws you to turtles and compels you to devote your life working to study and conserve them?

There's something core about turtles that's hard to explain. I just dig them. I guess it's a combination of their shape, their tenacity, their migrations, that they're ancient animals that were on Earth with the dinosaurs (I was a big dinosaur fan as a kid), and their endangered status. It doesn't hurt that they generally like warm, sunny, remote places, and so do I.

Authentically Tico: Lizano Sauce

Senior Researcher Meg Weaver offers another dispatch from her trip to steamy Costa Rica...

Before I left on my honeymoon, my pal asked me to bring her back a bottle of Lizano Sauce. “Sure,” I replied naively, “but what’s that?” In response, she launched rhapsodically about the condiment she savored during her time counting turtle hatchlings in Costa Rica back in 2001.

Seemed innocent enough. Little did I know Costa Rica’s Lizano Sauce has quite a following throughout the world. It’s a deep brown sauce made of water, salt, veggies, and some chemicals. It’s spicy but not hot; a little sweet but not overpowering. It was created in 1920 by the Lizano Company and is now produced and distributed by Knorr. It’s used to marinade meats, and tableside as a sauce.

It’s as ubiquitous as salt and pepper on any Costa Rican table. You can put in on your morning gallo pinto (literally, “spotted rooster”; a quintessentially simple Tico dish of rice and black beans), sprinkle it on some salty French fries instead of runny ketchup, or smother your arroz con pollo (“rice with chicken” and an assortment of tiny veggies) with its smooth flavor.

Lizano produces a variety of sauces under its brand name, including Hot Sauce and Chilero, but its “Salsa” is what the world craves. I'm not kidding: if you Google “Lizano Sauce,” more than ten pages of hits come up, most hoping to sell and ship it to you; other results are desperate pleas on message boards asking other addicts the best place to buy it.

While Costa Rica’s cuisine is an amalgam of Spanish, American, Caribbean, and South American cooking that's not entirely distinct from other culinary traditions in the region, its Lizano Sauce helps it stand apart. It’s authentically Pura Vida!

Is there an international condiment that you crave?

Photo: Lizano Sauce, by Son of Crowley via Flickr

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To Get to the Other Side

Travel writer Andrew Evans recently returned from a trip to Panama, where his dreams of a cross-continental stroll were dashed...

All I wanted to do was to walk across the bridge. That’s all. And yet it almost got me arrested. 

Let me explain: I love crossing borders, especially on foot. I think anyone who loves maps knows what I’m talking about. Stepping from one country into the next is kind of exciting, right? I don’t need to skydive or bungee jump to get a thrill. Just let me stand with one foot in each country and be in two places at once.  And why stop there?  Why not up the ante and walk between two continents? Well, because you can’t, that’s why. I know because I tried. 

On a recent assignment to Panama City, I paid a taxi to drop me off in North America so I could walk back to South America. What’s more, the ride took exactly five minutes and only cost me two bucks. We simply drove across the Bridge of the Americas and over the Panama Canal. Man, was I excited—here I was, about to cross the waterway that links the world’s two great oceans while separating the two American landmasses. It was a glorious moment, the Pacific Ocean was shining in the distance and rows of giant cargo ships were lining up to pass under the bridge and on to the Atlantic. I raised my foot in North America when a uniformed soldier started yelling at me. Then he was running at me, machine gun in hand. 

Cuba Libre?

In the Smart Traveler section of our September issue, writer Randy B. Hecht wrote that a new resident in the White House could lead to some changes in the U.S.'s nearly five-decade-long ban on travel into Cuba. Hecht writes:

At least 136 lawmakers from both parties have put their names to legislation (four bills in the House, one in the Senate) to end the embargo. That means 25 percent of Congress publicly supports an end to the travel ban.

Hecht notes that neither McCain nor Obama has co-sponsored the legislation, but she speculates that with Fidel no longer in power, the likelihood of a policy change could come about when a new president takes office. Right now Obama has come out to support loosening of travel restrictions for Cuban Americans, while McCain wants to maintain all sanctions until Cuba agrees to diplomatic reforms.

Political persuasions aside, what do you think about the Cuban travel ban?

Photo: Barrybar via the Intelligent Travel Flickr pool

Mexico Discoveries

Our September issue of Traveler includes a special section on Mexico, featuring 50 surprises that our team of writers uncovered during their adventures.  Traveler Senior Researcher Meg Weaver worked to help put the package together, and we asked her to pick her favorites. Below are the batch that had her longing to get away. You can find the full list in our September issue, now on newsstands.

I enjoyed researching #9 "The Mysterious Swimming Holes of the Ancient Maya," about the cenotes in Yucatán. I'm not a diver myself but wouldn't mind going for a dip in one of these flooded sinkholes. The Maya believe they were portals to the underworld and it's obvious why: the emerald waters, the vines cascading from the limestone rim above, the cool, fresh water. The cenote at Yokdzonot, ten minutes from Chichén Itzá, was cleaned up and opened as a sustainable tourism business by a small community group of Maya entrepreneurs. Online expat magazine, Yucatan Living, features a nice story and a video of the cenote at Yokdzonot, starring a lucky gallina (chicken).

Next up, #26 "The Town with the Pauchy Pups," about the ceramic potbelly dog statuettes of Colima. These ceramic pups were found in the region's shaft tombs. Scholars guess at their meaning: Perhaps dogs were a source of food or ritually sacrificed by the ancient Maya. Maybe they were the doted-upon family pet. Perhaps the Maya thought of dogs as indispensable escorts on their journey after death through the underworld. The mystery remains, but the market in souvenir pups flourishes throughout Colima.

Finally, # 27, "Chasing the Rain God on the Ruta Puuc," also in Yucatán. I enjoyed learning about lesser-known Maya sites off the well-worn Chichén Itzá track, and the unique architecture on display, especially Labná's inverted "V" arch. The Maya never utilized the Western keystone when constructing such impressive structures. Like conceptualizing zero and building many of their temples without mortar, the accomplishments of the ancient Maya continue to amaze, with Labná's arch yet another jewel in their crown. These three picks further my fascination with one of Mexico's mighty pre-Columbian peoples.

What are your own favorite Mexico discoveries? Let us know in the comments, below.

Photo: Teyacapan via Flickr

Mexican Home Cooking

While researching Mexican food for Traveler's "Mexico: 50 Discoveries" supplement, IT blogger Kristen Gunderson not only developed massive enchilada cravings, but she also became smitten with the Mexican Home Cooking school, a place that allows vacationers a true taste of authentic Mexico. Visitors - of any culinary skill level - can spend a week in the home of a Mexican chef and learn to prepare local delicacies while exploring the Puebla region's most outstanding natural features. The school's owner, Chef Estela Silva, has been a kitchen employee from the age of 7 and was even featured in the New York Times for her gastronomic know-how. Recently she paused from her busy cooking schedule for a Q&A with Kristen about Mexican cuisine and what's it's like to stay at her school.

What is the most unique aspect of Mexican cooking?

The cuisine reflects the culture here, in that the simplicity of the ingredients are used to prepare wonderfully complex and sophisticated cuisine. Many times the ingredients of life are very poor here and miracles are produced in the cuisine, buildings, and artwork. Mexicans have produced wonders from what is available at hand for generations.

Take chiles, for example: The school’s first day begins with a lesson on chiles. Yes they are hot, but they are used more for flavor. It is a mistaken belief that Mexican food has to be hot. It has to be delicious and then you create the amount of heat that you want. We use chiles just like you use salt and pepper.

How does learning about the area’s cuisine give your students an authentic “taste” of the local culture?

In the area of Puebla, our cuisine is very important to getting a “sense of place.” We first began with our indigenous cuisine, then the Spanish invasion came, bringing 400 years of Arab influence, with cumin, whole cloves, cinnamon, sesame seeds and many more Arab spices, which merged and enhanced our original kitchen. Then came a special touch to the Puebla area: With the French invasion in the 1860s, our culture changed once more. The indigenous, Spanish (Arab), and French mixture is a unique culinary combination in Mexico and indeed the world.

This influence can be seen in the food “Pipian Verde con Bictec en Relleno” (Green Pipian with Beef Rolls). It is a dish from the area that is very typical and reflects these culinary traditions: The pipian sauce is pre-Hispanic; the addition of cumin is a nod to the Arabs; and along with the paupiette de boeuf from Paris, they produce a classic poblano dish known throughout Mexico.

Costa Rica: Zip Tips

In the month since I visited steamy Costa Rica, I’ve been reflecting longingly on my honeymoon, where we stayed on the Guanacaste peninsula along the Pacific coast. One of the highlights of our trip was riding the zip line at the Congo Canopy Tour, between Flamingo and Ocotal beaches, as you can see in the video, below.

It’s a good thing I didn’t read Congo’s brochure until after swooping along all 11 lines, as it promoted the tour as one for “adrenaline junkies” and hard-core thrill seekers, neither of which is remotely me. (I’ve never been on a roller coaster for Pete’s sake.) That said, I had fun on the zip line tour and will never forget the experience (if only to ensure I don’t ever do it again). Here are some tips I learned while zipping around and hanging on for dear life.

Wear Jeans: The harness and equipment that secure you to the stainless steel line need to be tight around your pelvis, hips, and legs. I wore a skort and my husband shorts; neither was a good idea. We were chafing and our shorts/skorts were riding up on us throughout the two hours (making for less than complimentary photos too). Long jeans are best, despite the heat.

Wear Shoes Fastened to Your Feet: Remember, you’ll be dangling between 30 to over 100 feet off the ground, moving at a pretty brisk pace. You should be focusing on where your hands are and that you’re following the guides’ instructions. I saw some people wearing flip-flops and I couldn’t make sense of that choice. Who needs to be distracted by clutching their flip-flops with their toes? Leave ‘em on the beach and opt for sneakers instead.

Pay Attention: When the guides tell you to pay attention to their instructional orientation, really listen to them; don’t let the guides’ jovial nature make you overconfident or complacent about technique and safety. Zip lining can be very dangerous. Think about what they tell you and ask questions. Mime their movements even before they put your gear on you. If you’re unsure, ask them to repeat or give you some one-on-one guidance.

Hot Time, Summer in the City

National Geographic Books editorial assistant Hunter Braithwaite offers up some beach alternatives for urban dwellers.

It’s funny, if not outright inspiring, to think of how something as dreary as an international energy crisis can result in a widespread sea change in how we think about leisure activities. For a variety of reasons, ranging from high gas prices to pure laziness, people are opting to stay in town for the summer. And in some cities, the coast is being imported. Enter the fake beach, which is popping up in different incarnations across the globe.

First, there was the Paris Plage. Initiated in 2002 under Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoë, the plage (French for beach) has occurred every August, each time trying to outdo itself with true Parisian grandeur. Initially, it was just some sand (around 2,000 tons) dumped along the banks of the Seine, but then came the palm trees, the boardwalk, and the swimming pools (you don’t want to take a dip in the river itself). While the beach was initially met with criticism, it has since become a roaring success. Because it is in downtown Paris, the enveloping traffic noise will keep fantasies of the Riviera at bay, but there’s something to be said for tanning underneath Notre Dame. But keep your clothes on. Those going nude, topless, or in thongs will be slapped with a 38 euro fine. Where do you think you are, Europe?

Berlin has its own versions of the fake beach. The Berlin Strand is a group of tiki bars that define beach culture in terms of Germany’s twin passions–drinking and volleyball. A while ago, I passed the afternoon at the Bundespressestrand with my friend who’s spent the past couple years in the city. Literally translated as “National Press Beach,” the “beach” is made up of thoroughly unindigenous palm trees, volleyball courts, and a lot of sand. (In case you were wondering about the name, it was started by an unemployed journalist in 2003.) Admission is free, drinks are reasonably priced, and the volleyball courts cost 12 euro, unless you can grab one for free before 5pm. We had both grown up in Virginia Beach, so the idea of a beach ohne wasser seemed somewhat odd. To be fair, the beach was close to a rippling canal across from Kapelle-Ufer strasse, and even if there were water suitable for swimming, it’d be too cold anyway.

Planeta.com Announces Colibri Award Winner

We'd like to offer congratulations to Gerhard Buttner, the winner of Planeta.com's eighth annual Colibri Ecotourism Award. South African geographer Buttner won the honor for his superb work training guides and artisans in Mexico's Yucatan and Oaxaca.

Over the past few years Buttner has helped the community of San Antonio Cuajimoloyas develop its annual mushroom fair in August, which unearths the region's 100-plus mushroom varieties ("edible mushrooms without the magic trip," notes Planeta.com's Ron Mader). And earlier this year he became the debut English-language teacher for an Oaxaca education program for rural artisans in the town of Teotitlán del Valle.

Buttner's nominators trumpet his conscientious approach to connecting rural communities directly with visitors—a quality we fully appreciate. "Gerhard has recognized that in order to develop conscientious travel that connects Mexicans with foreign visitors, we Mexicans must have the communication tools to get the word out about local protocols, cultural history, and the environmental diversity of our country," wrote past Colibri Award winner Marlene Ehrenberg.

Mader says he chose Buttner for his exceptional "ability to see from multiple points of view. He's able to articulate what local weavers need and want and what travelers need and want. That depth of vision is crucial in developing ecotourism."

From all of us at IT, kudos! And for more on responsible travel innovators, check out IT's coverage of last year's Colibri Award winner, and peruse the recent winners of the first-ever Geotourism Challenge, sponsored by National Geographic's Center for Sustainable Destinations and Ashoka's Changemakers.

Photo: Gerhard Buttner, courtesy of Planeta.com

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