Intelligent Travel

A Typo Too Far

In recognition of National Punctuation Day, we give you, IT readers, the latest news in travel and grammar: While good grammar is admirable, the Associated Press reports, it is possible to take your punctuation enthusiasm too far: under the name the Typo Eradication Advancement League, Jeff Deck and Benjamin Herson traveled across the country this spring as self-appointed typo vigilantes – “a pair of Kerouacs armed with Sharpies,” said The Chicago Tribune - when they came across a rather offensive sign at the Grand Canyon’s Desert View Watchtower.

Upon “fixing” the sign (which involved moving an apostrophe and adding a comma, although they left the word “emense” alone) the two were arrested and charged with defacing historic property. As it turns out, the sign was a grammatically incorrect National Historic Landmark, hand-painted in the 1930s by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, designer of several desert structures (including the tower). In addition to paying a hefty fine of $3,035 and getting sentenced to probation, the two are now banned from national parks for a year.

Yikes. Authenticity 1, grammar 0.

Grammar mistakes can be particularly entertaining in new places. What grammar mistakes drive you crazy? Have you seen any good ones in your travels? Provide us with some entertaining stories or links in the comments below.

Read More: We blogged about Beijing's attempts to clean up their signage before the Olympics began. And the "Blog" of "Unnecessary" Quotation Marks has a great collection of signs from around the world.

Photo: The "Blog" of "Unnecessary" Quotation Marks.

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Going-to-the-Pie Road

For me, the famed Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park leads to so much more than breathtaking vistas and exhilarating hikes–it leads to pie. More specifically, it leads to strawberry-rhubarb pie with a big scoop of vanilla ice-cream at the Park Café in St. Mary, Montana.

I have been visiting Glacier with my family for as long as I can remember, and though we usually spend most of our time in the park’s less crowded Canadian sister Waterton Lakes National Park, we always make it a point to head down to Montana for a few hikes and a piece of pie…or two.

One of three restaurants in the tiny town of St. Mary, the Park Café has been motivating hungry hikers to hustle those last few miles since opening its doors in the 1960s. The doors where different back then–the café used operate out of a school bus–but these days, the café is a quaint house with a wrap-around porch and a gift shop next door.

Conventional Wisdom: Denver

Now that the Democratic Convention is in full swing, Denver, the mile-high city, is in the spotlight. So we're going back through our archives to offer up the city's best bets. In our July/August issue of Traveler, contributing writer Andrew Nelson offered a selection of local picks in each of the convention cities. But since many of you may not have brought your old issues with you to the convention, we re-purpose his list here, free of charge. Check back next week for more tips on Minneapolis/St. Paul.

Square Meal Deal
Pick up political gossip and tamales at La Casita. The Mexican restaurant is owned by local mover and shaker Paul Sandoval. “People hold political meetings here to strategize on who should run for what,” says Rocky Mountain News political reporter Lynn Bartels. “The food’s great, and it’s got a New Mexico flair, with more emphasis on chilis and less on cheese.”

Dome Alone
Colorado’s State Capitol is one of five in the country that allow visitors to go into its dome. The rest of the building can be seen on a free 45-minute tour. Two-week advance reservations recommended.

Endorsing a Party
LoDo, short for Lower Downtown Historic District, is the spot for fun. Filled with “everything from fancy restaurants to beer joints,” says Bartels, the 23-square-block neighborhood is the home of urban professionals and hip shopping. Landmarks include Union Station and Coors Baseball Field.

The People’s House
Like some candidates, Molly Brown proved “unsinkable.” A survivor of the Titanic, Brown had a sumptuous Victorian mansion in the Capitol Hill neighborhood. Today, it’s a museum devoted to her life.

Art Now
The Denver Art Museum is known for its Native American art collection. An edgy addition opened in 2006. Says Bartels of the Daniel Libeskind–designed annex: “It looks like a tornado hit it and they glued the pieces back together.” The museum is next to Civic Center Park, which may be the focal point for protesters during the convention.

Mayor’s Choice
“The Cruise Room is where Denverites celebrated the end of Prohibition and is said to be modeled after one of the lounges on the Queen Mary, so it’s got this amazing vibe,” says Mayor John W. Hickenlooper. “And it’s the perfect spot for a pre- or post-game toast to the Colorado Rockies team.”

Read More: For more advice on navigating Denver, check out our Destination Guide. And for reader picks on what to do in Denver (and in nearby Boulder) look to a recent IT "Plan My Trip!" post. IT editor Janelle Nanos followed reader's advice and checked out one fantastic Denver restaurant, and writes about it here.

Photo: Joanna B. Pinneo

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Striking Bacon in Boulder

Sometimes, when you're searching for gold, you stumble upon bacon.

It was my first morning in Boulder, Colorado, the city of superlatives, known as the best place in the U.S. for just about...everything. Its residents have been called the smartest, thinnest, and most athletic in the country, and it ranks high on where-to-retire lists, "dream" city lists, and pretty much every other list that's out there. So while I was anticipating a full day of exploring this colony of super-humans, ("we're mutants," one resident ventured), it was early and I was hungry. Which meant one thing: breakfast, and preferably one of champions, which I assume is pretty standard around these parts.

I arrived in Boulder late the night before, so I didn't have time to scope out prime breakfast hubs. I asked the guys at the front desk of my hotel for some nearby recommendations. They suggested a place called "The Golden Pancake," and I was intrigued. The name inspired visions of fluffy stacks of flapjacks, haloed in rings of syrup. I got the directions, and after bypassing an IHOP on the way, I came across an Original Pancake House (I can only imagine the "International" and "Original" houses of pancakes like to rumble on the weekends). Still searching for the elusive Golden Pancake, I wandered on, and into a yarn store, knowing that I can always trust knitters for good advice. Bursting my bubble, they claimed not to have heard of the alleged "Golden Pancake" and directed me back across the street for the "best breakfast in Boulder." Starving and ready to eat, I let my golden dreams subside and walked into the Original Pancake House, where I struck bacon.

Delectable Dining in Denver

Can I just pause for a moment to say how much I love you readers? Because I can honestly say that your insightful tips made my trip to Colorado terrific in so many ways. First off, you nailed the restaurant suggestions: I booked a table at the Vesta Dipping Grill before I left for the airport, and eight hours later, I was sitting before a roast duck with dried berry chutney sauce that was fit for the gods. My friends, including a Denver resident who had yet to try the joint, each were thrilled with their pork, scallops, and tuna (and the selection of dipping sauces that accompanied them—the restaurant has 37 to choose from), and I was more than happy to report that they had the readers of IT to thank. Service was excellent, and the space had a cozy, yet modern feel. And did I mention the food was fantastic?

My one evening in Denver gave me the chance to explore the neighborhood of LoDo, or Lower Downtown, the historic district which was the original Denver settlement site. It's now home to a collection of restaurants, bars, and galleries, and sits in the shadow of Coors Field (D.C.'s Nationals had just won their third game against the Rockies the night I arrived and dejected fans were spilling out onto the street, much to my boyfriend's delight). We didn't have a ton of time to explore, but we enjoyed wandering up the 16th Street Mall and seeing how things were shaping up for the Democratic National Convention (more on that in a later post). After dinner, we popped over (literally) to Corridor 44, a champagne bar in Larimer Square, and got a taste of their bubbly offerings. The small bar's ceiling glimmered with chandeliers, and the walls were decorated with terrific quotes espousing the benefits of booze:

I drink champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it—unless I'm thirsty. —Madame Lilly Bollinger

I was with a several friends who all happened to be in Denver for a short time, and it was fortuitous that we were able to be together. So we toasted the readers of Intelligent Travel for their help, and I set off to explore the best of Boulder over the weekend. More on that soon.

For more on Denver, check out our Destination Guide from our May/June issue.

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Plan My Trip: Denver and Boulder!

IT Editor Janelle Nanos is still putting the finishing touches on her posts from her West Coast trip (more SF tips await!), but she's getting ready to go on the road again. This time, she's off to Colorado and looking for your suggestions for what to do this weekend.

I have to admit that I've only just finally unpacked my bags from my West Coast adventure (I'm terrible about that) but I'm getting ready to lug them back to the airport this weekend to check out Colorado. This will be my first time visiting the area, and I'm looking forward to making the most of the hiking, biking, and other outdoor activities that Denver and Boulder are known for. But since I'm a Colorado newbie, I'd love to get some reader suggestions on where I should go.

Here's my plan: I'll be flying into Denver and spending the evening in the city, then heading down to Boulder for the rest of the weekend. This smaller city about 30 miles outside of Denver has been called the smartest and the thinnest city in America, the best place for runners and singles, and the number one green and clean and “dream” city in United States. You're tempted to wonder: what is this perfect place? I'm looking forward to finding out (and getting your help).

So please give me your suggestions for your favorite restaurants, hikes, and things to do in the comments, and if you're up for showing me around (as Pam did so well in West Seattle) let me know there as well. Thanks!

Photo: A boot display at Rockmount Ranch Wear in downtown Denver, by Joanna B. Pinneo

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Strange Planet: Butter Art in Iowa

Well folks, we're now into the month of August, and the long-awaited Beijing Olympics are upon us. But don't let the hoopla of the opening ceremonies overshadow another great tradition, the Iowa Fair, which runs August 7-17. And while sports such as swimming and track take center stage at the Olympics, the Iowa State Fair sports a popular attraction all its own: butter sculpting.

The famous "Butter Cow" (pictured) has been an icon of the Iowa Fair since 1911. These days, there's a freshly carved cow each year, along with original sculptures of international and regional icons (read: Tiger Woods, Elvis Presley, and Harry Potter). The figures were all sculpted from 1960 to 2005 by the buttery hands of Norma Lyon, better known hereabouts as the "Butter Cow Lady." The star of her sport has since passed the tradition down to her apprentice Sarah Pratt, who became the fair's fourth official butter sculptor.

Butter sculptures (even butter cows!) have spread to other state fairs in past decades (the REAL "Butter Cow Lady" has even been known to cross state lines to create butter udders for them), but this tradition can hardly claim its roots in the Midwest. Butter sculpting originated in Tibet (hey, a quasi-Olympic connection), where Tibetan monks used yak butter to create animals and deities for worship.

And in another Olympic connection, this year's butter sculpture specialty will be of Olympic gymnastics team member Shawn Johnson from Des Moines, who may be able to churn butter into gold.

Photo: The Iowa State Fair

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Jenss Family Travels: Americana

This month, Rainer Jenss and his family started their trip around the world, and they'll be sending us dispatches from the road over the course of the next year. Check back each week to keep up with the Jensses and see where they're headed next.

“Jeez Dad . . . It’s not Americana, it’s American!” Tyler barks at me with his typical 11-year-old sarcasm and "know-it-all" attitude.  “Why do you keep saying it wrong?” Looks like we both will be learning a thing or two about the true meaning of this word during the first – and longest – leg of our round-the-world tour.

I can’t seem to remember which incident sparked this reaction during the first half of our seven-week drive across the country, there were so many occasions to have uttered it. Ever since we passed through the border patrol in Port Huron, Michigan after our brief stint in Canada, we’ve encountered one uniquely American experience after another, starting with the food.

Carol will tell you that the biggest adjustment so far to life on the road is the almost incessant need to eat out. When we were offered the opportunity to stay in a house in northern Michigan by a colleague of mine (thank you Karen), little did we realize that perhaps its biggest draw would be the chance to eat home-cooked meals for a few days. Never have I seen my wife more excited to go to a grocery store! 

To deal with the constant quest for appropriate family-friendly dining, our investment in the book Roadfood proved fruitful. Far from a Zagat’s, this book highlights some of the best local eateries along our nation’s most traveled roads, according to Jane and Michael Stern, a husband-and-wife pair who have traversed the country writing about food for 30 years.  If nothing spells America more than M-c-D-o-n-a-l-d-s, perhaps we are doing this country a disservice by not recognizing the likes of Thompson’s Restaurant in Bingham, Maine; Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria in Chicago; Bob’s Café in Sioux Falls, South Dakota; and the Sundance Café in Dubois, Wyoming.  For me, these are the places that serve up real "American" cuisine. Sure, most of them offer regular menu of burgers, pizza, and greasy fried food we normally try to avoid, but it’s the atmosphere in which they are served that makes them oh so Americana.

Cinematic Road Trip: Ohio

John Ur hits the halfway mark for our journey together on the Cinematic Road Trip. And where best to do it but Ohio...

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland

Here we are halfway through our journey together. It seems like just yesterday we set off from the desert in West Texas and circled our way across the Southwest and up the Pacific Coast. We hiked through Canyon Country and Rocky Mountains and danced our way across the Great Plains, nibbling as much corn as our stomachs could hold, as we pulled up to the Great Lakes region. Mark this date. Today is the point of no return. It would be just as long a journey to turn around and go back as it would be to continue on and complete the task. Burn the ships, men! Onward we march!

Before we rush off into the forest and get ourselves lost, maybe we should figure out where we are. We are here, of course, and here happens to be Ohio. According to the US Census Bureau, Ohio is in the East North Central States Division of the Midwest. Say what? Leave it to a government agency to use more words than necessary to make something as confusing as possible. But one thing is certain, or at least widely assumed, and that's the fact that Ohio is the swingiest of swing states. When it comes to presidential politics, the phrase most often proffered by pundits is "as Ohio goes, so goes the nation." (It also cropped up as the title of a documentary about the 2004 election ...So Goes the Nation.) We'll see how it swings come November.

I haven’t spent all that much time in Ohio but I do know that much of the state has been through the same economic downturn felt by other steel manufacturing locations throughout the Rust Belt. Despite that, Ohio has many economic advantages for its various industries, including being within a day’s drive of over 50% of the nation’s population. And being home to King (Lebron) James.

Where the Buffalo....Still Roam

Back in September, I blogged about the concept of the Buffalo Commons, whose goal was to revert the Great Plains to its pristine condition by creating a nature preserve for free-roaming bison. So when I read a recent article in the New York Times about this very topic, I was delighted to discover the eco-initiative has continued to gather momentum over the past several months.

The NYT reports:

The lions won’t be arriving anytime soon, but travel operators have already come, to take advantage of the return of the wild. “When my wife and I first started, two decades ago, we were one of only two operators in the state,” said John Hanson, owner of the Logging Camp Ranch in Bowman, N.D. “Now there are thousands.”

NYT suggests some highlights among the "thousands" of eco-operators, like Off the Beaten Path. Based in Bozeman, Montana, the outfitter offers guided, seven-day trips through the Dakotas, where travelers visit a working bison ranch to learn from bison rancher and author Dan O'Brien (in addition to indulging in a can't-get-fresher-than-this barbecue).