Intelligent Travel

Cinematic Road Trip: Minnesota

There’s a lot to say about Minnes-oota, doncha know. Ya, there’s lots of lakes and snow, just like the Norwegian and Swedish immigrants were used to back home. You betcha.

Apologies to any 'Sotans whom I’ve offended with my mocking Scandinavian accent. My only exposure to the dialect has been through movies and Betty White in Golden Girls reruns when I was a kid. 

My real experience with Minnesota was fleeting and uneventful. I raced across the southern border of the state along Route 90 heading from Wisconsin towards the Badlands in South Dakota. The most memorable part of that stretch of country? The suicidal insects that Jackson-Pollocked my windshield and front bumper. These bugs came in all shapes and sizes, and different colors—at least, their insides were different colors. Every few hours, I’d have to stop the car and break out the Windex because the wipers couldn’t handle the sticky goo remains of the tiny kamikaze artists. Valiant and courageous defenders of their personal air space, but no match for a speeding Subaru.

Minnesota—Dakota for “whitish or cloudy water”—is filled with lakes and rivers, making it a great place for outdoor adventure. The State Tourism Board actively promotes Voyageurs National Park, which is located in the upper northeast corner bordering Canada near the wilderness mecca Boundary Waters Canoe Area. Minnesota has no less than 22 scenic byways if you’re the driving type (this article is titled “Road Trip” after all). If you're feeling a bit more urban, the Twin Cities (Minneapolis-St.Paul) have an extended series of bike lanes through the cities—a good eco-friendly way to see the place where almost half the state population resides. You can then extend your bike ride into the hills around the Mississippi, Minnesota, and St. Croix River Valleys.

As for cinema, within the past two decades, Minnesota has fared slightly better than its neighbors to the south and west. Robert Altman shot his last film here in 2006 (A Prairie Home Companion). Sam Raimi shot some of his 1998 thriller, A Simple Plan, here after learning some techniques for shooting in the snow from his friends, and Minnesota natives, Joel and Ethan Coen. (We'll delve into the film a bit more next week in Wisconsin).

Goodwill Through Good Food

National Geographic KIDS staffer Allie Carroll tells us about a culinary voluntourism organization called CulinaryCorps, which her sister, a chef, founded in 2007:

On June 1st, volunteer cooks from around the country will travel to New Orleans, Louisiana, to promote good will through good food. The trip is spearheaded by CulinaryCorps, a non-profit organization that designs, organizes, and launches affordable volunteer outreach experiences for culinary professionals. At present, CulinaryCorps focuses its trips on the rebuilding and culinary renaissance of New Orleans, and this June marks CulinaryCorps' fifth trip to the city since March 2007. 

The ambitious, week-long itinerary is built upon partnerships with local organizations working at the intersection of community and food. On the first day of the trip, the CulinaryCorps team of 14 talented chefs will test their mettle by cooking the evening meal for over 500 volunteers at Habitat for Humanity's Camp Hope. The next day, the volunteers will collaborate with Edible Schoolyard NOLA to help launch an "Edible Afternoon," a day of tasty field-day challenges for students at the Samuel Green Charter School. The CulinaryCorps itinerary also includes opportunities for volunteers to learn first-hand about the food culture so important to the city, including a dinner with Gumbo Tales author Sara Roahen, a crawfish boil with Slow Food convivium leader Poppy Tooker, and an early morning stop at Pearl River Blues Farm for fresh blueberries and okra.  The week concludes with volunteer work at two very special events: the "Taste of Mississippi" fundraiser for the Mississippi Slow Food convivium, and the Gala Opening of the much-anticipated Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans.

Read More: Emily Haile blogged about the New Orleans Culinary Comeback after Hurricane Katrina. Traci Angel wrote about her experiences as a voluntourist with Hands on New Orleans. And check out our list of volunteer groups who welcome visitors throughout New Orleans.

Remaking James Madison's Montpelier

Associate Editor Amy Alipio recently ventured to Virginia to witness the restoration efforts at Montpelier, the former home of our fourth President, James Madison.

I’m embarrassed to admit that I didn’t know a whole lot about James Madison before I visited his house, Montpelier, recently. Without the benefit of an HBO mini-series chronicling his life, our fourth president is probably the least known of the nation’s founding fathers. And that’s not for his lack of accomplishment. As architect of the Constitution and drafter of the Bill of Rights, he’s basically responsible for devising our entire system of government.

With the goal of promoting his legacy, a $24-million project is currently restoring Madison’s Georgian-style home in Virginia to what it looked like in the 1820s, when Madison and his wife Dolley retired there after his presidency.

The project hasn’t been an easy task. After Madison’s death at Montpelier in 1836, Dolley sold the estate in 1844 to pay her bills and those of her son, John Payne Todd, who was a gambler and alcoholic (“Bad at one, good at the other,” says a Montpelier guide). The house had six different owners before William and Annie duPont bought Montpelier in 1901 and enlarged the house from 22 rooms to 55. They added wings, an additional story, and painted the house cotton-candy pink. Restorers first had to eliminate all of that, and then begin the painstaking process of authentically recreating the Madisons’ 1820s house, using original beams, windows, and doors whenever possible.

Vote for Your Favorite Geotourism Innovator

As all of our readers know, we at Traveler and IT are always looking to promote sustainable travel initiatives. Our fellow colleagues at the Center for Sustainable Destinations have teamed up with Ashoka's Changemakers for the first ever Geotourism Challenge. A panel of judges (including Traveler's Editor in Chief, Keith Bellows) has narrowed down a list of 324 sustainable travel innovators, nominated by readers, to a handful of finalists. Now the public gets to decide who wins. To vote for who you think is the top innovator in ecotourism worldwide, go to Geotourism Challenge website and hit "Vote Now" to express your view on who is best enhancing the environment and culture of a place being visited. Voting ends June 11 at 6 p.m. EST.

For the complete list and to vote, click here. And check out the full list of finalists after the jump.

This Art Exhibit Made Me Cry

I’ve never been as moved at a museum as I was when I viewed the new exhibit “Afghanistan: Hidden Treasures from the National Museum, Kabul" at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. (After D.C., the exhibit will travel to San Francisco, Houston, and New York.) I love to visit museum exhibits, and am often awed and bedazzled, but moved to tears? Not so much.

But this exhibit has such an extraordinary backstory that it’s hard not to be touched by it.

The objects on display are amazing enough: 228 pieces from the National Museum’s collection, ranging in date from 2,200 B.C. to the third century A.D. They include a Bronze Age goblet made of finely beaten gold, fish-shaped glass flasks from the first century A.D., and a gold crown from the famed “Bactrian Hoard” that’s so delicate the dime-sized, paper-thin disks of gold dangling from it jiggled when people walked by its display case.

They tell of a land, as Marco Polo wrote, “rich in gold and gems”—a hub of Silk Road trade and a crossroads of civilizations. When the so-called Bactrian Hoard was discovered in Tillya Tepe in 1978, it was as significant a find in the archaeological world as that of King Tut’s tomb. The gold and bejeweled objects found in the six nomad graves of Tillya Tepe were a mix of cultural influences—Chinese, Greek, Roman, Siberian, Indian—clear evidence of extensive commerce between east and west in ancient times.

But then Afghanistan descended into what would be some 30 years of war and turmoil. The National Museum was bombed and looted several times, and other Afghani cultural treasures destroyed (remember the heartbreaking destruction of the third-century, giant Buddha statues of Bamiyan by the Taliban in March 2001?). The Bactrian gold disappeared.

The fact that we can view these relics today is thanks to real heroes who risked their lives to secret away as many cultural and historical objects as they could and kept a code of silence as to their whereabouts until it was safe for them to come forward.

Spring for Spargel

Spargel, asperges, asparagus. In any language, Asparagus Season is in full swing. And in Europe, this means markets, festivals and special "asparagus menus" are popping up all over the place.

Every town I went to during my recent trip to Europe was in the midst of asparagus obsession. In Riquewihr, France, signs perched outside restaurants proudly announced "Les Asperges sont arrivées!" (Asparagus has arrived!). In Salzburg, Austria, posters were plastered all around town advertising the city's upcoming "Spargelfest," which I sadly missed by two days. In Bonn, Germany, the Saturday market was bombarded by healthy stalks of locally grown white* asparagus, the preferred variety in Germany and bordering countries.

Indeed, it is Germany that is perhaps the most obsessed country, where white asparagus is heralded "The Royal Vegetable." During Asparagus Season, the average German eats asparagus once a day -- every day. Only five percent of the total German asparagus production is exported this time of year. There's even an "Asparagus Route" in southwestern Germany, which passes through the country's top asparagus cities, such as Schwetzingen, the self-proclaimed "Asparagus Capital of the World."

So whether it's biking along Germany's Asparagus Route, attending an asparagus festival, or simply trying some top-notch cream of asparagus soup, you'll be hard pressed not to catch spargel fever if your travels take you to (or around) Germany before the asparagus season ends in mid- to late-June. So "stalk up" and enjoy!

*Wondering what the difference is between green and white asparagus? I was, too. After some careful research, I learned that white asparagus is grown in soil underground and receives no sunlight, and thus lacks the chlorophyll that turns green asparagus green. It tends to be more mild and tender than green asparagus.

Photo: Fresh spargel at a Frankfurt market via tenbon on Flickr

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Pizza Pilgrimage: Al Forno in Providence

Hunter Walker gets us seriously hungry for some grilled pizza in Providence.

Al Forno means "from the stove" in Italian, a style of cooking from northern Italy that uses a wood-fired brick oven. So it's a fitting name for Providence, Rhode Island's Al Forno's restaurant, an elegant eatery whose grilled pizza is legendary. When they debuted their gourmet take on Italian comfort food in 1980, Al Forno chefs Johanne Killeen and George Germon were credited with being the restaurateurs to bring the dish from Italy to America. Since that time, the grilled pizza has become an acclaimed, often imitated, Providence original.

The unique oven-grilling gives the restaurant's signature margherita pizza a salty, crisp, and deliciously charred crust. The pie is covered with fresh grated Pecorino Romano, Fontina and massive gobs of savory, sweet tomato sauce.  The whole thing is topped off with a delicate smattering of green onions that balance out the many flavorful notes in the dough and sauce. The pizza is light, complex and utterly deserving of its reputation as one of the best around.

The grilled pizza seems huge at first glance, but it's only an appetizer, and if you're sharing it with even one other diner you'll find yourselves finished far too soon. Thankfully, the rest of Al Forno's menu lives up to the excellent introduction provided by their famous first course. All the dinner items served at Al Forno use subtle seasonings that allow the natural tastes of their top quality ingredients to shine.  The entrees are divided between exquisitely prepared pasta dishes, roasts, and gamy grilled meats. Go for the grilled stuff: the hardwood-fired game is smoky and succulent. For pasta lovers, I recommend the Fettucine alla Chitarra, which comes paired with a tender house ham. Make sure to save room for the desserts, they're all made to order. I have a serious weakness for their chocolate-filled crepes, which come drizzled with chocolate syrup and swimming in a cool crème anglaise.

Al Forno is located in a waterside industrial nook on South Main Street near downtown Providence. The view isn't much, but inside, the updated farmhouse décor feels like a cozy, country osteria. Though the atmosphere is decidedly upscale, the friendly staff and first-come-first-served reservations policy make it a safe place for casual diners. The last time I ate there, my date and I arrived dressed down and rain-soaked mere minutes before closing time. Nevertheless, we were still welcomed with open arms.

Al Forno, 577 South Main Street, Providence, Rhode Island; +1 402 271 9760.

Photo: Margherita pizza at Al Forno, by TomatoSoupBlog via Flickr

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Save Gas: Fly Slower

We have a thing for slow travel, but until now, we didn't really think it could effectively involve planes. But that might change: Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) recently announced that, in an attempt to cut its carbon emissions and reduce their gas expenses, they've opted to fly slower. Reuters reports:

SAS said on Tuesday it has reduced the cruising speed of its passenger jets to about 780 kilometers (485 miles) per hour from 860 kph. The test project, run by SAS's Norwegian unit, has saved it an estimated $12 million in fuel since early 2006.

Since testing their policy, they've implemented it on all of their flights. So now, a jaunt from Oslo to Bergen, Norway would save 130 kg (287 pounds) of fuel and 420 kg (926 pounds) of carbon emissions. And the difference in time it takes to arrive? Only three minutes. Considering that that's usually the amount of time we spend waiting for the food cart to make its way back to our aisle, we don't think the extra time would bother us that much. And in order to ensure that they can make up for the lost time, they're going to, gasp!, ask people to board the planes earlier. Being on time? And more earth friendly? I can handle that.

SAS is apparently also looking to spruce up its "green" image by allowing customers to opt to offset their CO2 count when they purchase their tickets. The entire SAS Group is also hoping to reduce its carbon output by 20 percent by the year 2020.  You might say they have 20/20 vision.

Photo: Scandinavian Airlines

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NG’s Jim Bullard: The (Nearly) Perfect Suitcase

Contributing Writer Cathy Healy is always looking for the perfect way to pack. So she asked her lunch pal Jim Bullard, the manager of National Geographic Expeditions, the Society’s tour arm, for his suggestions.

My friend Jim has explored every continent – lots of times, with lots of different kinds of luggage. But his real quest is to find the perfect suitcase.

“Have you found it yet? I’ve just bought another mistake,” I asked him glumly the other day. “I can’t lift it into the overhead bins.”

“Huge mistake!” said Jim. “Never buy a bag that’s bigger than 23 inches. Remember, if the elevator is broken at your hotel, you may have to carry your bags up the stairs." Seeing my opportunity to score some advice, I launched into the question and answer portion of our meal:

So a 23-incher is the answer?

Listen, there is no perfect suitcase! It’s taken me 25 years to figure that out. If you’re going to Alaska or Antarctica, you need space for rubber boots and big, fat jackets.  If you’re going to Paris or Sicily, you need a sports jacket and slacks. There’s no one bag that serves all those needs. I’ll bet between us, my wife and I have 20 to 30 suitcases.

THIRTY! You’re kidding--where do you store them?

We pack the little bags inside the big ones, but I never use the big ones anymore. We take soft-sided, 22- to 23-inch duffels, made out of sturdy fabric, with strong handles, skateboard wheels, and tops that completely open, so the duffels are easy to pack and easy to see everything inside.

Why soft-sided? I saw some cute, bright plastic carry-ons the other day at Reagan National…

Soft-sides are lighter and you can stick more things in them. We tell all of our [NG Expedition] travelers to leave their hard-sided suitcases at home. If you’re on a ship, hard-sides don’t fit under the bunk, and if you’re on an African safari, hard-sides aren’t even allowed on the little planes.

Photo Tip of the Week: How to Shoot a Portrait

Much of the travel photography advice culled from the Internet is less-than-reliable. Here at the National Geographic Society, we have the unparalleled advantage of working with some of the world's best photographers. Here—free for the taking—we present you weekly trinkets of travel photography wisdom from our esteemed experts. Happy shooting!

Photographer Catherine Karnow is a master of capturing a unique sense of place. She divulges her tricks of the trade in Traveler's photo seminars.

How to Shoot a Portrait

"Getting close to people is the best way to get close to a culture. The camera is a great tool for meeting people. I've found that in every country there are folks who love to be photographed. But there are secrets," says photographer Catherine Karnow, who has been shooting for more than 20 years, including this great shot of a few laughing boys in the Arab Quarter of Marseille and this photo of an exuberantly patriotic family celebrating Australia Day.

Five of Karnow's secrets for shooting portraits include:

• Take the time to develop relationships with people and the land.
• Focus on common experiences—love, family, friends, death, celebration—and appreciate the cultural differences.
• Keep your camera discreet, always ask permission, and photograph people unposed, ideally involved in a typical setting.
• Learn a dozen words of the local language. "Please" and "thank you" are good places to start. And be sure to smile.
• Learn as much as you can about a place before visiting and always respect local customs.  If you're not wanted, quietly leave and move along to the next photo opportunity.

MORE PHOTO INFO: For more photography tips from National Geographic Traveler photographers, click here, or sign up for one of our travel photography seminars. Plus, join our Flickr pool, download Traveler's free photo of the week for your computer's wallpaper, and navigate photography websites like a pro.