John Ur returns for another round of Cinematic Road Trip. This time, he casts his line and pulls up a winner in the form of the great state of Montana.
There is a certain grace and flair necessary for driving across the United States. As I mentioned last week, if you try to muscle your machine over the hills, you might pop a cork. You have to deal with inclement weather (stay tuned for Wisconsin!) and long hours of mindlessly straight and flat land. You must stay alert for animals straying to the roadways looking for food (like the twelve-foot-tall elk I met around the bend of a dark road through Yellowstone National Park). Without the aid of a GPS, you must pay close attention to signs and landmarks in order to avoid getting lost. And if you're from New Jersey, as I am, you must acclimate yourself to the confluence of speed limits as highways meet neighborhood roads. Or else you'll find yourself, as I did, face to face with the sheriff, who waited patiently at an intersection as the limit abruptly dropped from 75 to 25 mph. But don't worry, he'll be plenty congenial as he takes your fine (in cash) on the spot.
What is there to see in Montana besides flashing lights in your rearview? That depends on which side of the Continental Divide you're on. The eastern 3/5ths of the state, like Colorado, is a part of the Great Plains, long and flat. There's a reason it's called Big Sky country. The western 2/5ths is more densely populated; the Rockies spread up from Wyoming and Yellowstone National Park (which overlaps into Montana) and eventually stretch up to Alberta and British Columbia, Canada. This section of the state contains some of its most populous cities – Bozeman, Butte, Great Falls, the capital of Helena, and Missoula. It also contains the outdoor gem of the state – Glacier National Park.
Nat Geo Adventure has a recommended itinerary here. But if you only have a day and you're just driving through, Going-to-the-Sun Road is one of my top two drives in the country (as long as you don't mind heights) along with the Pacific Coast Highway. If you haven't seen Glacier National Park yet, you need to pack up and go soon, as the glaciers are disappearing fast.
Montana is a great place for adventure. It's got wildlife, mountains
and rivers. The pace of life is yours to choose. Live it fast if that's
your style. But if you want to live it slow, you might want to check
out A River Runs Through It. This picture, directed by Robert Redford, is set in Missoula
but had to be shot in Livingston. Since the time period of the movie is
the 1920s, Redford needed a town that hadn't been modernized. With the
establishment of the University of Montana in 1893, Missoula has
experienced too much growth over the past 80 years to resemble what
it was back in the '20s. Livingston, on the other hand, has a
population only about one-tenth the size of Missoula, which made it an
easier place to film a rustic period piece.
The story portrays the three men of the McLean family, brothers
Norman and Paul and their father, the Reverend McLean. Though the men
often clash over life and spiritual choices, they find a common ground
in the water of Montana's rivers enjoying their favorite pastime: fly-fishing. Each fishing scene on the river is given special treatment
by director of cinematography Philippe Rousselot. The shots allow the
light that bounces and glints off the water to play like cosmic sprites
in the lens of the camera. Slow-motion shots of the men casting their
lines into the water bring the meditational quality of the novella that the movie was based on to the screen.
Time in Montana, whether fishing, hiking, or driving
(hopefully not too fast), is time well spent. But don't forget to heed
the advice of Reverend McLean: be quiet and "listen."
Also recommended: Northfork, The Untouchables.
Read More: National Geographic's Center for Sustainable Destinations has teamed up with community leaders in Montana to create the "Crown of the Continent" geotourism mapguide, which was just released last week. Check out their website to explore their online map of authentic outposts and order a free copy for yourself. Visit the past stops along the Cinematic Road Trip: Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Idaho, Washington, Oregon, California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Also, check out Doug Chadwick's article "Crown of the Continent" about Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park, in last July's National Geographic Magazine, with a stunning photo gallery by Michael Melford.
Photos: John Ur
Our family went to Montana not long after "A River Runs Through It" came out and it does, indeed, capture much of the scenery in it's beautiful cinematic shots. I especially enjoyed the time that we spent in Butte after we left Yellowstone.
Posted by: Kango Suz | April 07, 2008 at 11:38 AM
Glacier National Park is a wonderful park and my favorite of the northern parks showcasing amazing evergreens and flora. The thing about this place is that it really humbles you in its presence and gives you a sense how small you are and how big mother nature or the world is. The same goes for Montana in general and is therefore a great spot for a masterpiece like A River Runs Through It.
Posted by: Evan | May 09, 2008 at 04:25 PM