Des Moines: Trendy?

I’m fresh from a five-year stint living in Des Moines, Iowa, so needless to say, my attention was piqued by a recent travel article in the New York Times extolling the capital city’s new downtown boom, just in time for the Jan. 3 Iowa presidential caucuses. “There was a time when being told that I would be spending New Year’s Eve in Des Moines would have, well, sobered me up in a New York minute,” wrote Adam Nagourney, chief political correspondent for the Times. “…I’m not sure I would go so far as to say that Des Moines has become a vacation destination. But it has most certainly become cool.”

Now, I don’t need someone from New York (especially not a political junkie) telling me my former home is suddenly hip, but I was intrigued to hear his rendition of what I’ve been trying to convince my new East Coast friends since moving to D.C.

And to Nagourney’s credit, he hits many of the highlights of this so-called new, tony Des Moines, from renowned British architect David Chipperfield’s copper mesh and grass-roofed Central Library to upscale 801 Steak and Chop House (“a classic Iowa steakhouse with New York prices”).

Even so, he missed a few killer spots, so if you find yourself in Des Moines—whether it’s for the caucuses or not—be sure to try out a couple of my favorite downtown experiences that just might convince you that the rumors are true: Des Moines is on its way to becoming a real city.

SHOPPING: Back in 2006, Traveler reported on the East Village, a small shopping district that stretches west from the gold-domed Capitol building, and the neighborhood has only grown since. Hopscotch through its independent shops for EPs by local bands at ZZZ Records, hilarious and trendy Iowa pride T-shirts at Smash, handcrafted arty décor at Sticks, and funky clothes by homegrown talent at Aimee (432 E. Locust St., +1 515 243 0045). Re-fuel with a spicy Bloody Mary and tasty bruschetta at The Continental (428 E. Locust St., +1 515 244 5845), or recline with a steaming pot of oolong loose-leaf tea in the cushy backroom at tranquil Gong Fu Tea.

• NIGHTLIFE: Belly up to the curved bar and choose from the 107 beers on tap staring back at you—including more than a dozen Iowa brews—at El Bait Shop (200 SW 2nd St., +1 515 284 1970). The spot defies the term eclectic, featuring a “Where the Wild Things Are”-inspired wall mural as well as a working shower, just for kicks. Sharing the building (and owners), High Life Lounge (+1 515 280 1965) offers retro-nostalgia 25-cent spritzes of Old Spice and a shot called the Tangermeister (you guessed it, Tang and Jägermeister). Or, for a quieter evening with a smidge more class, slip into a wooden booth at The Lift and sip an S&M martini (tip: two martinis for $6 on Wednesday nights). Duck in to neighboring music bar Vaudeville Mews, a cavernous indie rock showcase frequented by Iowa’s biggest band since Slipknot, The Envy Corps.

• EATING: Though I'll confess I haven't tried all of downtown's most hyped dining spots, like Azalea (with upscale farm-grown dishes), a few blocks northwest of downtown sits its sister restaurant, Star Bar, a popular spot for lunch, dinner, drinks, and brunch. Or, a hallmark of Des Moines power lunches, Centro serves coal-fired brick oven pizza, sandwiches on artisan fresh-baked bread, and other Italian nosh. And Iowa doesn't have a Whole Foods, but even better is Gateway Market, which opened last spring on the northwestern edge of downtown with fresh, foodie lunches and shelves lined with artisanal goods. Or, for tasty pub fare and micro-brews, downtown standby breweries Court Avenue and Raccoon River won't disappoint.

• CULTURE: Des Moines' surprisingly good (and free!) Art Center opened a downtown branch almost five years ago, and the museum's 20s and 30s group, Art Noir, sporadically hosts events like last year's avant-garde costume contest, the "Warhol Ball." In June, downtown transforms into an incredible outdoor art gallery for the juried Des Moines Arts Festival. Get your theater fix downtown at the restored Temple for Performing Arts or at the new, indie venue Fourth Street Theatre.

What are the up-and-coming neighborhoods where you live?

Photo: above, Suwandi Chandra; below, courtesy of Smash.
 

Comments

[Cj B]

I grew up in Iowa and moved out to Cali 4 years ago... I really miss Des Moines and all it has to offer. For being a "small" town, there's a lot to do, and most of it can be done for fairly cheap!

[Gudrun]

on our last visit to Iowa (that is where the in-laws live) our flight was canceled because of snow in Chicago. We spent the afternoon at the science museum with our kids, which turned out to be great. Beautiful facility, nice exhibits for the kids, an overall pleasant way to deal with a delay.

Thanks for all the recommendations, we will be visiting again and if we can get the in-laws to watch the kids, I would love to check out some of the shopping and restaurant recommendations!

Cheers,

[Noah]

I'll add to this Des Moines love-fest:

Hessen Haus - German bar and restaurant where you can get beer in a giant glass boot. With complex rules for the game you have to play while drinking it!

The Science Center of Iowa - interesting for the geeky types.

The Des Moines Music Coalition does a lot of great things for local musicians, like putting on the annual Gross Domestic Product showcase.

And the Des Moines Farmers Market! One of the best in the country for sure. Definitely better than the Eastern Market farmers market. Yeah, I said it.

Katie also forgot to mention that you can buy a pickled, hard-boiled egg from a big jar at High Life Lounge. Feels like a marble.

Hell yes indeed.

[Katie]

Here are some downtown updates from Cara Hall, a friend-in-the-know back in Des Moines who writes for the local entertainment publication, Juice (www.dmjuice.com):

In the East Village, Ephemera is a new shop in the live/work lofts selling handmade stationery. East Village Books (it's classy as indie bookstores goes) opened across from Sticks. Pure Paper is moving next to Gong Fu and Eden is renovating a larger space on the other side. Yogis sweat it out at H(om) Yoga directly above the Locust Tap.

Dos Rios is definitely the hot restaurant right now and Court Center is holding a lot of the bigger downtown concerts.

We seriously can't keep up with all the changes. Sometimes I have to choose between 2 or 3 events I want to go to at the same time. We'll never be Chicago, but it's a fun time to be Des Moines.

[mary beth]

don't forget la mie!! yummmmmy.

[chris]

Just a few more suggestions from a downtown Des Moines resident:

The Gateway Market is also open for breakfast and dinner, has free wi-fi and $2 glasses of wine or microbrews during their M-F happy hour. Other recommended eateries in downtown would include Ban Thai, Tasty Tacos, Raccoon River Brewery, Noodle Zoo, Legends, and Court Avenue Brew Pub.

The Brenton Skating Plaza is right along the river, 2 blocks from the East Village. http://www.brentonplaza.com/

The Civic Center brings in Broadway plays, muscials, concerts and comedians. http://www.civiccenter.org/ Wells Fargo Arena offers concerts, the Iowa Stars (hockey) and the Iowa Energy (basketball). http://www.iowaeventscenter.com/ In the summer, a night at Principal Park watching the Iowa Cubs is hard to beat.
http://web.minorleaguebaseball.com/index.jsp?sid=t451 Tickets for all of these venues are very reasonable.

The wonderful Science Center also has an IMAX.

As for hotels, Embassy Suites, Renaissance Savery, Marriott, Suites of 800 Locust, and Hotel Fort Des Moines are all in the heart of downtown. And the airport could not be more conveniently close.

And few cities can beat our bike paths, our soon-to-be completed riverwalk and the wonderful Gray's Lake recreation area.

Hmm, what else? It really is hard to keep up with all the development. Oh yes - don't miss Eden in the East Village. It has wonderful bath & body products rarely found elsewhere in the Midwest.

[Jessica]

I have lived in Des Moines for 8 years now, and it just keeps getting better and better! I will add to your list The Royal Mile - on 4th Street north of Hessen Haus (same owners). Huge selection of imported beer from around the world, and great English pub food. Upstairs from Royal Mile is The Red Monk, a small bar specializing in Belgian beer. Also, the Grand Piano Bistro opened on Grand Ave, just a few steps to the east of Eden (next to the Olympic Flame, a fantastic Greek restaurant). GPB has great food, and the piano acts they bring in are so much fun!

[Tom Osborn]

I can't believe that no one has mentioned Splash Seafood Bar & Grill! Also check out the new Splash Raw Oyster Bar and Market.

[Sue]

We really enjoy driving our classic car to Porky's Diner on Saturday nights in the summer. You can always see the best of the old classics and have a big tenderloin too.

[Brian]

Traveled to Des Moines on business... breakfast at the Gateway Market was really great. Huevos Rancheros... Muy Bien!

[Olivia Giovetti]

I stopped in Des Moines on a road trip from NY to LA and fell in love with the East Village (not to mention the best Thai food I've ever had). Glad it's finally getting its due.

[Spencer Abbe]

The south-side coffee shop Cup of Kryptonite should also be mentioned. It combines a coffee house atmosphere with comic books--a must for anyone of the nerd persuasion. In addition, it's right next to the classy Fluer Cinema, what more could you want?

[Kirstin]

I love Iowa.

End of story.
:]

[Kirstin]

I love Iowa.

End of story.
:]

[Kirstin]

I love Iowa.

End of story.
:]