Intelligent Travel

Jenss Family Travels: Welcome to Bhutan

Check out this and other posts at our new blog website: www.intelligenttravelblog.com

Rainer Jenss and his family are currently on an around-the-world journey, and they're blogging about their experiences here at Intelligent Travel. Keep up with the Jensses by bookmarking their posts, and follow the boys' Global Bros blog at National Geographic Kids.

Land of the Thunder Dragon . . . Kingdom in the Clouds . . . Shangri La . . . Himalayas . . . Gross National Happiness.

Read anything about the Kingdom of Bhutan, and these will likely be among the buzzwords you'll come across. They're what piqued my curiosity a few years ago while researching possible adventure vacation options for a friend and I. Investigating a little further, I discovered that this remote country nestled between Tibet and India only allows about 20,000 foreign visitors a year, perfect for someone like me who was looking for something unspoiled and exotic. And after being exposed to Buddhism's basic principles through years of practicing yoga, I could further explore the religion in this remote part of the world.

When our family's around-the-world trip became a reality I had to inform my trusted travel companion that the "boys only" trek to Bhutan would have to wait. But as Carol and I started mapping out our route through Asia, I couldn't resist tossing up Bhutan as an option. Was it a risk to take Tyler and Stefan to such an isolated country in a region we knew little about? 

We noticed that National Geographic Expeditions offered tours there and asked if Bhutan was a good family-friendly destination. They responded with a resounding 'yes,' and with their enthusiastic endorsement, we made it work, anticipating that this might just be the highlight of the trip.

If there were any trepidations about how we would handle Bhutan's harsh terrain, spicy food, or unique culture, we figured the six weeks spent in Asia leading up to the trip would have us prepared. The kids seemed thrilled to be going on another tour because of the positive experience they had in China, so when we met up with the group in Bangkok, I wasn't surprised to see Tyler and Stefan immediately gravitate to the trip's expert, Richard Whitecross.

One Japanese Airport Has Very Chill Idea

See this post and others at our new website, www.intelligenttravelblog.com.

Snow and airports typically aren't friends. Delays, cranky customers, and even crankier ticket agents are in the forecast at the check-in line after Mother Nature dumps a load of the white stuff. But one airport in Japan is extending an eco-friendly hand to its usual nemesis. Beginning in 2010, the New Chitose Airport in Hokkaido, Japan, will start collecting some of its 20-30 feet of annual snowfall and use it to help cool the building during summer months.

By using heat-insulating materials, an estimated 45 percent of the snow could be preserved. The remaining melted snow will be put to use to chill the airport's liquid cooling system. The island has been experimenting with such cooling techniques since 1998.

The northernmost and least-developed of Japan's islands, Hokkaido is known for its brutal winters and splendid skiing conditions. Capital city Sapporo holds an annual Snow Festival in February, one of the largest winter events in Japan. By taking advantage of one of the island's most abundant natural resource, the New Chitose airport will reduce its CO2 emissions by 2,100 tons per year.

Read More: IT rounded up a host of green airports worldwide last month, including Boston's Logan International Airport's wind energy initiative, which helped it earn the distinction of the first LEED-certified airport terminal in the U.S.

Photo: Winter scene in Hokkaido, via Kaz&Masae's Flickr

Jenss Family Travels: Sayonara Japan

Rainer Jenss and his family are on an around-the-world trip, and they're blogging about their experiences for us here at Intelligent Travel. You can keep up with the Jensses by bookmarking their posts and following the boys' Global Bros blog at National Geographic Kids.

Week Three of our immersion into the world of Japanese culture brought us to Tokyo, the city that fueled my longing to return to this country after my first visit there some fifteen years ago. Since we had gotten acclimatized to city life from our time in Kyoto (not to mention Beijing and Shanghai the previous month), dealing with crowded train stations, especially the subway platforms of Shinjuku, which are the city’s busiest, didn’t faze us. Besides, the boys were too fixated on the various types of trains that shuttled us around the country to even notice.

So besides zipping around on the Japan Railways, we aimed to find some activities that would strike a balance between kid-friendly and culturally enriching. Sorry guys, we didn’t come all this way to go to Tokyo Disney!  Fortunately, this proved to be far less challenging than I originally thought because Tyler and Stefan were becoming fond of Japan. Furthermore, they enjoyed learning the basic phrases and didn’t seem bothered at all by the language barrier. This proved quite helpful as we headed out on our first day trip in Tokyo.

But while seeking cultural experiences, we had to admit that there’s only so much that will hold the interest of an eight- and eleven-year-old. If Carol and I had been here by ourselves, we surely would have attended the Kabuki Theatre to take in one of the oldest and most traditional Japanese art forms. Instead, we found ourselves in a place called Kidzania, a child-sized replica of a real city that enables kids to learn about the adult world, and the value of money and work, by experiencing various professions. So what could possibly be so culturally relevant about that?  For starters, I must admit that I was growing rather fatigued from continuously asking the kids to mind their manners since we arrived in Japan. After all, this is a country that from early childhood emphasizes discipline and restraint, and nowhere was this more evident than in a children’s entertainment center. With all due respect to American families back home, Kidzania confirmed that the Japanese by-and-large have their children under control and very well behaved, which only added to my anxiety of scrutinizing our children's every move. Nevertheless, Carol and I were amazed at how well they adapted to the culture. Kids are certainly known for their resilience, but I never would have imagined that they both would be eating several varieties of raw fish, pickled vegetables, soups and noodle dishes by the time we left. Stefan has even gone so far as to say he’d rather eat a meal with chopsticks than a knife and fork.  And Tyler was completely serious when he requested a heated toilet seat for his next birthday.

Jenss Family Travels: Japan's Secret Gardens

Rainer Jenss and his family are three months into their around-the-world journey, and they're blogging about their experiences for Intelligent Travel. You can keep up with the Jensses by bookmarking their posts and following the boys Global Bros blog at National Geographic Kids.

Three important occasions marked our second week in Japan: a milestone, a birthday, and an anniversary.  It was also a time that brought to light the joys and unique challenges of spending a year traveling with your family. 

To celebrate Carol’s birthday and our fifteen-year wedding anniversary two days later, we had made plans to be in Kyoto because I had been told, by the editor-in-chief of National Geographic Traveler no less, that it was one of the most magnificent places on Earth. Needless to say, expectations were high when we arrived via bullet train from Nagasaki after spending most of our first week in the rural areas of southern Japan (like the well known EuroRail pass, Japan Railways had two week unlimited travel passes available that are good throughout the country – a big plus).

Over the course of the first three months of this trip (a hint to what the milestone is), I repeatedly emphasized to the boys the importance of first impressions. “When you initially meet someone,” I explained, “how you act towards them in the first few minutes will likely form their opinion about you forever.”  I further clarified that this also applies to places and objects, and told them that judging something before getting to know it was foolhardy. In the case of Kyoto, I realized I needed to heed my own counseling. This was a big city. Not New York or Tokyo big, but big enough where 1.47 million people call it home and mass transit is the best way to get around. This was not the vision I had, however, from admiring so many photographs of its famous temples and gardens. It is also not the romanticized pre-WWII Memoirs of a Geisha Kyoto either.  Experiencing the tranquility of meticulously manicured rock gardens or seeing a genuine geisha was going to take some effort and experienced guidance. Or maybe a babysitter, for as the week progressed, I become obsessed with this quest for enchantment. But could it even be possible with two children and a host of other tourists to contend with? I was determined to at least give it a go.

Global Eye: Nationality Square, Nanning, China

Photographer: Michael Taylor, New Zealand

Getting the Shot: The photo was taken at Minzu Guang Chang (Nationality Square) in Nanning, Guangxi province, China.

The Details: Opposite the square is the huge poster of Mao, Deng, and Jiang (China's past three leaders) which I used as background to the passing woman.

We love how the depth of field is constantly changing as you look at the photo – the cars seem like toys or the leaders seem like giants. For more photos of China, check out National Geographic Magazine's Your Shot China Map. Think your own photo is good enough for Global Eye? Add it to our Flickr pool.

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Jenss Family Travels: People to People in Japan

Rainer Jenss and his family are currently on an around-the-world journey, and they're sharing their experiences with us here at Intelligent Travel. You can see all of their stops so far by bookmarking their blog posts here.

After we went against our instincts and booked a group tour in China, Carol and I had mixed feelings on where we should head next. Japan was another country in Asia that we didn’t think we could handle without some professional assistance. For weeks before we left, we deliberated about even including this country on our itinerary since Carol's initial research confirmed what we suspected, that Japan would be a pretty expensive destination for a family of four. After all, there seemed to be more affordable options to consider in Southeast Asia that wouldn’t break the bank. But I was pretty adamant since I had always wanted to see more of the country after traveling to Tokyo for business in the mid-'90s. Besides, I thought the boys would be very interested in the place that invented Nintendo, sushi, and origami. I was determined to make it work even though we didn’t know anyone who could help us with housing. Renting a car didn’t seem practical and youth hostels in Japan were not really an option for us. And when we looked into organized tours, they were pretty cost-prohibitive. Finally, at the recommendation of a friend who had traveled around the world with her own family for two years, we contacted the national tourist board for counseling.

I was a bit skeptical at first, but after I talked to the Japanese National Tourist Organization and explained to them our situation and budget, they seemed quite enthusiastic and confident that they could help. Specifically, I emphasized that we wanted an authentic experience – to immerse ourselves in the culture as best we could – not just stay in hotels and see all the major tourist attractions. Moreover, we wanted a relaxed schedule that wasn’t too hectic. After all, we were not your typical tourists. This was just three weeks out of 54 for us, and we had home schooling to do! So after a few rounds of revisions, we came up with an itinerary that seemed to fit the bill and budget, and on the last official day of summer, we landed in Fukuoka to begin our quest to discover the real Japan.

Global Eye: Lombok, Indonesia

Photographer: Lee M. Turner, Bali, Indonesia.

Getting the Shot: The image is the result of a quirky convergence of isolation, inspiration, and playful improvisation. The island of Lombok (Indonesia) is situated 25 miles to the east of Bali, across the Lombok Strait. The tropical isolation providing the postcard-perfect backdrop is Lombok's southern coastline, replete with pristine white sand beaches, teal blue surf, few tourists, and an endless procession of colorful bouquets of locally produced tapestries, called ikat, being paraded across the seascape by enterprising local vendors.

The Details: As a photographer, I was captivated and inspired by the contrast of the ikat's bold colors against the backdrop of the seascape's muted pastels. I approached a vendor who was at rest and playfully asked if she would 'model' her wares for me. Perhaps it was the audience, or perhaps it was the relaxed and isolated setting, or perhaps it was the chance to show her beautiful wares while indulging her free-spirit. Whatever the motivation her performance was entertaining as it was persuasive. This particular image captures her as she pauses at the end of her improvisational dance, just before she doffs the yellow ikat in favor of yet another in her dazzling collection. In the end I purchased four ikat's, if not for the beauty of the ikat alone, then surely for the memory of their presentation.

Photo: Lee M. Turner, Shot with a   Canon 5D w/ 35mm 1.4L Canon Lens; 1/200 @ 5.6; ISO 50; off-camera SB 550 strobe.

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To Get to the Other Side

Travel writer Andrew Evans recently returned from a trip to Panama, where his dreams of a cross-continental stroll were dashed...

All I wanted to do was to walk across the bridge. That’s all. And yet it almost got me arrested. 

Let me explain: I love crossing borders, especially on foot. I think anyone who loves maps knows what I’m talking about. Stepping from one country into the next is kind of exciting, right? I don’t need to skydive or bungee jump to get a thrill. Just let me stand with one foot in each country and be in two places at once.  And why stop there?  Why not up the ante and walk between two continents? Well, because you can’t, that’s why. I know because I tried. 

On a recent assignment to Panama City, I paid a taxi to drop me off in North America so I could walk back to South America. What’s more, the ride took exactly five minutes and only cost me two bucks. We simply drove across the Bridge of the Americas and over the Panama Canal. Man, was I excited—here I was, about to cross the waterway that links the world’s two great oceans while separating the two American landmasses. It was a glorious moment, the Pacific Ocean was shining in the distance and rows of giant cargo ships were lining up to pass under the bridge and on to the Atlantic. I raised my foot in North America when a uniformed soldier started yelling at me. Then he was running at me, machine gun in hand. 

Beijing’s Encore

Rainer Jenss and his family are two months into their around-the-world journey and they've just landed in Beijing, where they've found that they're both tourists and tourist attractions unto themselves. Follow along with the Jenss family by bookmarking their blog posts here.

As we prepared to touch down in Beijing after a long day’s journey from Honolulu, I flipped through the in-flight magazine to the section with the airline route maps just to confirm that we were in fact going to be halfway around the world from our hometown when we landed. My rough calculation had us just east of the official marker, but close enough. I did this just in case a psychological boost was needed for Tyler and Stefan - if they started getting homesick or didn’t like Asia, I could easily tell them that from now on, we’d be traveling back towards home. (Even though that’s actually not completely accurate, it sounds good.)  So much to my delight, after our first week in China, I don’t think I’ll need to pull this out anytime soon, for the boys are having a ball, thanks to some good fortune and surprises.

As the day arrived for us to leave the U.S., it wasn’t hard to notice that the kids were a bit nervous and less enthusiastic than they had been leading up to our departure. Stefan had no inkling of what China would be like and Tyler was concerned about the language barrier. The layover in Tokyo, however, turned out to be a blessing, because it gave them a very good first impression of Asia via the cool Japanese products in the terminal shops (particularly the origami store). The sushi and noodle restaurant we sampled didn’t hurt either. When finally arriving in Beijing, we were greeted by a friend-of-a-friend whom I had only met via e-mail. She’s an ex-pat living in the suburbs who offered to put us up for as long as we wanted. Having two children of her own made it especially welcoming for the boys, and for Carol and I, we had a voice of experience that could familiarize us with China and help navigate the city. 

After two days of acclimation, we ventured out on our first excursion into China, hiring a guide to assist us in experiencing Inner Mongolia (an absolute must given the immense language barrier). We were particularly intrigued with the notion of sleeping in a yurt out in the wide-open grasslands – kind of like camping Chinese style. As expected, the boys got a kick out of it, but apparently, so do a lot of other Chinese tourists. Much to our surprise, big tour buses rolled en masse into this small "middle-of-nowhere" location two hours outside of Hohhot, the region’s capital.

To our further amazement was the fact that of all the hundreds of other visitors, we were apparently the only Westerners – I mean only. Subsequently, we became as much of a tourist attraction as the Inner Mongolian countryside. This was also the case when we visited the outskirts of the Gobi desert. Our camel trek turned into a massive photo shoot, making us feel more like grand marshals waving in a parade than camel jockeys. Stefan, in particular, was in hot demand to get on film. One man even went so far as to kiss him square on the cheek.  This fascination with blonde hair and blue/green eyes even carried over when we returned to Beijing. 

India: Life in the Fast Lane

National Geographic Magazine has a fascinating story in the October issue about the building of India's Golden Quadrilateral highway system, a 3,633-mile roadway which will stretch between the country's four corridors. Check out this video to get a taste of the careening, cow-dodging drive that is simultaneously enhancing the infrastructure of the country and tearing apart traditional farming communities. But as one official quoted in the film says, "Once the roads come, the economic activity improves and the quality of life improves." We hope that that is indeed the case.

Update:  There are four more short video episodes on this India story:  Car Culture (blessings and racing), The Luxurious Life (for some), Human Impact (farmers protest), and The Filthiest Job (truck driving).  Enjoy!

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