Intelligent Travel

Getting the Dirt on Napa's Organic Wine

Contributing Writer Jim Conaway gets the dirt, literally, on Napa Valley's organic wine business.

The barn is old, red, and lovely, topped by a droll weathervane – an elongated frog in mid-jump – and surrounded by a riot of blooming mustard and other chest-high nitrogen-fixers. This dense, nutritious jungle overruns the nearby vineyard and nearly hides the name, Frog’s Leap, painted on a fence rail. Despite sheets of black plastic stretched over a very large mound of aging manure, both the winery and grounds looked, the last time I visited, more nineteenth than twenty-first century.

Its owner is John Williams, a bearded, unassuming proponent of organic agriculture for two decades and co-founder of the Rutherford Dust Society - a collective which has as one of its primary concerns the health of the nearby Napa River - and he was talking sustainability. “We got the farming down,” he told me, “and then I realized that there are 35 cars parked here belonging to workers. You don’t want to come off holier than thou when half the things you do still contribute to pollution.”

He has hopes for a parking shed with a roof of solar panels to recharge the batteries of the hybrid cars he wants to one day make available to employees, and one for a tractor that runs on the sun. But that’s another story in the broader narrative of organics, in part an attempt to instill in farmer and consumer a greater appreciation of the taste of place. Inherent in that taste, they say, are healthier communities at both ends of the production cycle – growing, and imbibing.

Destination Watch: Trestles Beach, California

In the October Issue of Traveler, our Destination Watch department looked into the ongoing controversy surrounding Trestles Beach in southern California, a shore made famous in the Beach Boys' classic "Surfin' U.S.A."  National Geographic magazine Production Coordinator Jeff DiNunzio recently visited the beach and sends us this update.

Just below San Diego’s northern border with Orange County sits San Onofre State Beach, or San O. The park includes three distinct areas, the Bluffs, San Onofre Surf Beach, and San Mateo Campground, and over the past year, San O has become a battleground between supporters of highway infrastructure development and challengers who favor fewer cars and preserving the park.

The Transportation Corridor Agencies (TCA) want to extend the Foothill Toll Road—Route 241—and link coastal Orange County with its expansion eastward. In order to deal with the estimated 60 percent traffic increase expected in south Orange County in the next quarter-century, the TCA believes the six-lane, 16-mile extension will be a vital accommodation. The road in question falls under the California highway system but is operated by the TCA, which is funded by the sale of bonds to both private individuals and institutional investors. The extension boasts a list of supporters and research on congestion-induced environmental hazards.

The addition, however, would cut through a patch of well-maintained terrain in San O, and opponents fear it would threaten the operation of its campgrounds (eliminating all of San Mateo’s 161 sites).  Furthermore, it would diminish water and wildlife quality (San Mateo Watershed purportedly contains six rare or endangered species) and adversely affect the waves at Trestles Beach, which draws surfers from around the world. The assertion that new roads will mitigate, rather than worsen, congestion has met persistent skepticism. Organizations like Save San Onofre, the Surfrider Foundation, and United Coalition to Protect Panhe are campaigning to counter the TCA’s lobbying efforts for approval, boosting press coverage to rouse public support.

World's Greenest Museum

The "living roof" of the new California Academy of Sciences Museum, by Tim Griffith

The California Academy of Sciences will reopen this weekend as the greenest museum in the world. Located in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, the revamped, gargantuan CAS is an aquarium, digital planetarium, natural history museum, and four-story rain forest all rolled into one.

The U.S. Green Building Council is on course to award CAS its highest mark of sustainability, the LEED Platinum ranking. CAS is green on many levels: it’s insulated by nontoxic, second-hand blue jeans; it’s topped off with a 2.5-acre “living roof” stocked with 1.7 million native California species (which will absorb about 2 million gallons of rainwater annually); its pair of celebrity chef-led restaurants feature organic produce and local seafood; its glorious glass piazza uses an automated ventilation system to let in cool breezes from the park and refresh the building; it’s set to consume 30 percent less energy than required by federal codes; and its 60,000 photovoltaic cells will use solar power to produce between 5 and 10 percent of the museum's energy needs.

Sustainable Sushi in San Fran

IT reader and cookbook writer Pat Tanumihardja sent us a note singing the praises of San Francisco's sustainable sushi scene, so we asked her to share the details from her recent visit...

Eat seasonal! Buy organic! You’re preaching to the choir in San Francisco, where sustainable cuisine is no longer a buzzword but the word on the dining scene. Now there’s a new trend in town—sustainable sushi.

What is sustainable sushi anyway and why should we care? It's prepared with seafood coming from sources, caught or farmed, that can exist long-term without compromising the health of fish populations, habitats or the ecosystem. Unfortunately, the most beloved sushi items in the United States—long-line tuna, farmed salmon, farmed freshwater eel (unagi), farmed imported shrimp, and farmed Japanese amberjack tuna (hamachi)—aren’t sustainable.

So what’s an eco-conscious sushi lover to do? Enter Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar. The forward-thinking restaurant opened last April in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco and touts itself as the world’s pioneer in serving sustainable sushi. I recently paid a visit to explore my options.

The postage-stamp-sized restaurant sat about a dozen customers at handcrafted bamboo tables. Once our order was taken, the first dish arrived quickly. The kampachi tataki comprised lightly seared slices of Hawaiian almaco jack (a type of amberjack) served with avocado slices, jalapeños and dribbled with a spicy ponzu sauce. The 49er roll came next, comprising the rose-peach flesh of arctic char—an ocean-friendly substitute for farmed Atlantic salmon, and just as tasty— served with tobiko (flying-fish roe), avocado, and lemon slices. Then the tataki roll arrived. Draped with Technicolor flaps of almaco jack, skipjack, local albacore, and hand-line yellowfin (maguro), the roll was finished off with generous sprinklings of masago, each artful pile different from the next - wasabi, soy, yuzu, and traditional masago.

Napa Valley Nostalgia

Last night, I opened up a bottle of Pinot Noir brought back as a souvenir from my recent trip to California, and realized how lovely it was to revisit Napa Valley through the smell and taste of my first sip. But I have to admit it also got me longing for barbecue. "Come again?" I'm sure you must be wondering. Well, let me explain: In the heart of Napa Valley is some of the best barbecue found west of the Mississippi, and it's served in the company of some very fine wines, making for, perhaps, the perfect meal.

I'd ventured up to Napa with two friends from Kansas City, so when they mentioned trying some barbecue I was cautious. Their standards are much higher than my own, but really, I wondered, can you expect good barbecue in California? And in the highbrow area of Napa it didn't seem a likely fit. But I was pleasantly impressed.

For the past 14 years, importer Mark Pope, aka "The Bounty Hunter," and his team of "Wine Scouts" have introduced thousands of wines to his loyal customers. Since 2003 he's been running the eponymous bistro and wine shop in downtown Napa that's factored in his second obsession: barbecue. In the restaurant area, guests sit at several high tables, where they can order up wine flights or pulled pork sandwiches—both of which are so full of flavor that your taste buds richocet through your mouth, unsure of what to do with themselves. Opposite the tables are shelves and shelves of wine, which the gracious and well-versed staffers will pull down and pair with your meals. The three of us perused the menu and finally settled on the the Bounty Hunter Smokin' BBQ Platter, a mix of pulled pork, apple wood smoked brisket, and barbecued ribs with meat that just about melted off the bone. The Kansas City girls were blown away—the mix of smoke and spices mingled with the trio of amazing sauces, and I knew we'd found something special. (In fact, it was so good that though I told myself I would take a picture for the blog, the food didn't stay long enough on the plate for me to even snap one shot.) 

All the President's Mints

The oceanside town of Carpinteria, California, population 13,000, gets easily overshadowed by its star-studded neighbors, Santa Barbara and Montecito. The likes of Kevin Costner, Oprah Winfrey, and Steve Martin reside in this lovely stretch of Pacific coastline some 90 miles north of Los Angeles. But Carp, as it's affectionately known, boasts a few of its own stars, as well. Its beach is often called “the world’s safest,” and it hosts the annual Avocado Festival in October, the “largest free festival on the south coast.” Another edible local celebrity: Robitaille’s Candy, home to the Presidential Inauguration mint.

Robitaille’s is a family-owned business that has been in operation for over 30 years. Its mints, round discs of creamy white chocolate dyed all sorts of hues, took center stage at the 1985 and 1989 presidential inaugurations as the events’ official candy. Since then, patriotic pieces of minty delight have been made in red, white, and blue, along with Robitaille's traditional pretty pastel assortment, neatly lined up in a long, see-through box.

I used to visit Carpinteria – and Robitaille’s – almost yearly growing up, and while their mints were worthy of ample space in my suitcase, they’re not the only sugary star in the joint. The peanut caramel clusters, the coconut stacks, delectable varieties of homemade fudge, and cute candy-store trinkets meant that a good chunk of my afternoons (if I wasn’t boogie boarding at that oh-so-safe beach) were spent perusing the counters (covered with candy-stripe awnings) and shelves of Robitaille’s.

We know, January’s presidential inauguration is still five months distant. But we’ve got politics on our mind with the upcoming conventions. And, well, we just like candy. So, if you’re planning your own convention-watching, election-watching, or inauguration party, check out Robitaille’s website for info about shipping boxes of their officially delicious mints.

Of if you're lucky enough to be near Carp, visit Robitaille's brick and mortar location at 900 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, CA (805) 684-9340.

Photo: Robitaille's Candy

Subscribe to this blog's feed

Eating (and Drinking) Well With Matt in San Fran

So after a whirlwind trip, IT editor Janelle Nanos is still recovering from her tour of the West Coast. She'll be summing up some of the highlights over the coming days and weeks.

I'll start off by saying that eating well in San Francisco isn't all that hard to do. The produce there is so fresh that you sometimes have to give it a smack and put it in its place, and the city's proximity to the Napa and Sonoma wine regions (more on that later) means that you're bound to find a vintage that suits your palate. But I like to eat, and so I left it to a flock of friends and a host of IT tour guides to help me pick where I should grab grub over the course of my trip. Here are some of my favorite bites.

On Thursday night, I met up with San Francisco local (and occasional IT blogger) Matt Bloom, whose day job is staff editor at San Francisco magazine. Teaming up with Traveler contributing editor Andrew Nelson and another SF staffer, we hoofed it through the Bermuda Triangle of downtown San Fran where North Beach, San Francisco's answer to New York's Little Italy, borders "adults only" skin shops and spills over into Chinatown. Matt had a specific place in mind known for its view, The Empress of China garden and restaurant. Sure, the place may have been a bit more glorious in the '70s (faded pictures of Sammy Davis, Mick Jagger, and other era celebs greet you in the foyer) but take the elevator up to the sixth floor and the view remains the same. We passed under the elaborately carved 30-foot octagonal wooden garden pavilion and headed to the bar, where we had an impeccable view of Coit Tower and the city sprawling below.

After drinks, we walked over to Bocadillos, a hip wine and tapas bar that was brimming with people (and which was formerly home to a gay nightclub in the 30s and 40s, we learned from a small placard outside). There, we feasted on a host of small plates: Andrew insisted on the house-made chorizo, then we wrestled for the last of the garlic prawns. After sampling a few other dishes (and some of their wine) we asked our waitress which dessert she would choose to bring with her on a deserted island (no pun intended). She paused, staring up at the ceiling intently for a moment before a smile spread across her face: The warm chocolate cake with banana ice cream. Our decision was made, and it was delicious.

Stay tuned for more tidbits from Janelle's West Coast trip. And check out her posts from Tacoma, Ruston, and Seattle Washington, and biking San Francisco's Presidio.

Empress of China 838 Grant Ave., +1 415 434 1345
Bocadillos 710 Washington St., +1 415 982 2622

For more on San Francisco, be sure to check out the September issue of Traveler magazine, now on newsstands. And enjoy our San Fran photo gallery on our website.

Photo: Janelle Nanos

Subscribe to this blog's feed

Santa Barbara Fiesta

Intelligent Travel pal Megan Sneddon contributes a tip about annual Santa Barbara Fiesta, which starts today and continues throughout the week:

Arriving with just as much folklórico dancing as fanfare, Santa Barbara, California’s Old Spanish Days Fiesta will be in full swing over the next few days, and kicks off today on the steps of the historic Old Mission. This year’s theme: Viva La Comunidad, or long live the community!

In its 84-year history, Fiesta has become a cultural celebration highly anticipated by local and international spectators alike, perhaps because it is the only time of year when it is acceptable to wear oversized sombreros in public and chant, “Ole, Ole Ole!” without receiving a disdainful glare. The first official Fiesta was held in 1924 with the opening of the Lobero Theatre which was named in honor of Guiseppe "José" Lobero, a famed Italian trombonist and singer. Both the celebration and the theater remain lofty manifestations of the modern-day town.

Plan My Trip! Seattle and San Francisco

Ok readers, here comes a challenge. We at Traveler make a living telling people where to go and what to do when visiting new places. But we also know that the real essence of great travel is having knowledgeable locals tell you where to go. So I'm turning the tables a bit and asking you, our readers, to help me plan my upcoming trip to Seattle and San Francisco. What are the local haunts that a typical tourist would miss? The favorite neighborhood joints, the outstanding yet overlooked museums, the things that locals do on a Saturday instead of checking out the sites? I want to know.

This will be a reader-generated trip. You guys get to decide where I'll go and here's the deal: I want you to show me. I'm going to be in Seattle the weekend of July 18th, and in San Francisco the weekend of the 25th, and I'll be blogging while I'm gone. I'll have my video camera too, and I'd love not only meet our readers, but introduce them to the rest of you. So leave your suggestions for favorite places in the comments below, and if you're up for being a tour guide, email me so you can show me a slice of your town.

Photos: Seattle by Rich Frishman; San Francisco, by Charles O'Rear/Corbis

Subscribe to this blog's feed

 

Cinco de Mayo in Any Language

Happy Cinco de Mayo! If you're not too busy sipping your margarita, take time to enjoy IT Contributing Writer Cathy Healy's latest story about how sometimes, even celebrations can get lost in translation.

I've heard that San Jose boasts the biggest and best Cinco de Mayo celebration in northern California, but I've yet to experience the two-hour parade and throbbing musical acts blasting from two stages. Last year, even though I was only 30 minutes away, I lived in a different universe, with 12 international fellows at Stanford.

“Hey, let’s do something for Cinco de Mayo!” I said in late April, thinking of the annual excuse for an outdoor party in my Dupont Circle neighborhood in Washington, D.C., where the sidewalk cafes are typically packed with celebrants. “Cinco de Mayo’s a sort of Mexican heritage party,” I explained. “It’s really great! You drink margarita slushes, and eat nachos with jalapeños, and listen to mariachi music…”

The fellows glanced up from their laptops.

“When is it?” asked Hernan from Colombia. HUH?!

“I’m a Brazilian. Why would I want to celebrate Mexico’s independence?” asked Fabiana.

“Will the banks be closed?" asked Netika from India. Several of the fellows had gotten messed up on the Columbus Day holiday.

“Cinco de Mayo isn’t an official holiday,” I said. “It’s just something fun that everyone does, like St. Patrick’s Day.” No response. No one knew about that 'everyone’s-Irish' excuse for drinking beer since we’d all left for spring break on March 16.

Edgardo from the Philippines interjected: “Oh, I get it—Cinco de Mayo is when the Mexicans celebrate the Day of the Dead.”

"C’mon!" I said. "The Day of the Dead is always the day after Halloween!” I gave up.

Thus it came to pass that on Saturday, the fifth of May, four of us drove north to tour Napa wineries instead. After a couple of sippings, Ken from the U.K., a devout beer-drinker who’d become a McFlurry junkie at Stanford, persuaded us to forget the Silverado trail and hunt down a McDonald’s. They weren't quite the frozen margaritas I'd had in mind, but they did help beat the heat.

And on Sunday, the sixth of May, Hernan discovered Cinco de Mayo in San Jose. Turns out, he was right to ask in the first place, as the festival was in full swing.

“It was really great!” he told us the next day.

Read more: Check out Cathy's latest adventures in Amsterdam and Wyoming.

Photo: Janelle Nanos

Subscribe to this blog's feed