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April 2008

April 30, 2008

Global Eye: Moscow

Putin_doll

Photographer: Kat Tancock, Toronto, Canada.

Getting the Shot: I took the photo in mid-March at the Vernisazh market in eastern Moscow (also known as Izmailovo Park).

The Details: It was a bright day and I was taking advantage of the bright colours in the stalls with my Canon SD750 point-and-shoot camera. I loved the juxtaposition of the Putin doll with all of the standard matryoshki.

We love how this picture helps sum up how tradition and politics mingle in Moscow. No doubt there's a few riddles hidden inside the Putin doll.

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Subway Art

Photo: Subway Snail GrrlScientist is a brainy blog I like, and the author, an evolutionary biologist and ornithologist, has recently completed a photo series of all the tile mosaics on walls of the New York City subway station at 81st Street and Central Park West, which is right outside the American Museum of Natural History. She's identified most of the colorful creatures by their scientific as well as common names.

There's a monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus), spreading its wings, and in a former life, its jaunty striped caterpillar self looping along near the floor. There's brown kiwi (Apteryx mantelli), with long feathers and slender beak poised on one wall, and a red and yellow African reed frog (Hyperolius marmoratus), glommed onto another. Near the ceiling under a fluorescent light, an unidentified shark patrols a coral reef. A whiptail lizard (or is it a hatchling Knight anole?) curls its tail around the street number 81 on one wall. An octopus's garden appears on another wall, which GrrlScientist photographed for her cephalopod-loving friend's 92nd birthday. She took many of these images, by the way, while she was recuperating from a broken arm. Her entire archive of 81st St. subway art images is here.  Her favorite is this moody blue coelacanth.

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Trip Lit: Wolf Totem's Inner Mongolia

Wolf_totem "Life on the grasslands of Inner Mongolia is hard and brutal, but it embodies an edifying nobility and symmetry too," writes our literati leader Don George in April's Trip Lit book column. He's describing one of the central themes of the "electrifying" Chinese novel Wolf Totem, which was written by a publicity-shy, 61-year-old former political science professor at a Beijing university, under the pseudonym Jiang Rong. George continues:

Like Jiang, the protagonist of Wolf Totem, Chen Zhen, is an "educated youth" who has moved to the grasslands from the city in the mid-1960s, at the beginning of the Cultural Revolution. There he quickly becomes fascinated with the wolf, at once the adversary and the totem of the local Mongolian people. The wolf is fierce, ruthless, cunning, and essential to the delicate balance of the grasslands ecosystem—and becomes a key for Chen to unlock the intricate riches of grasslands life. During the course of the novel, more and more Han Chinese move into the region, bringing their naive ideas about land use and animal control. As a result, the wolves are exterminated, which contributes to the grasslands beginning to turn into desert.

Read more about Jiang's international phenomenon here, and keep up-to-date on the rest of this month's new travel literature round-up, from beautiful photo-driven coffee books (think Mother's Day gifts!) to modern Middle Eastern fables sure to delight fans of The Arabian Nights, plus a fascinating portrait of the Dalai Lama and Tibet by the prolific Pico Iyer.

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April 29, 2008

No Beer at the Inn

Karam_game The Halal Inn opened last December in Oldham, England, as the first Islamic pub in Britain. Buzzing (albeit a bit hesitantly) with a decidedly sobering business model, the place adheres to a strict no-alcohol policy, opting instead to serve fizzy non-alcoholic juices, drinks, and spritzers.

The Daily Mail explains:

Pubgoers can play snooker, darts or karam, an Indian board game similar to billiards. Islamic-themed quiz nights have also been organised.

Owners Azizur Rahman and business partner Muzahid Khan spotted the potential in the former Westwood Inn which was lying empty on the edge of the town centre.

Muslims are a major consumer group and they need somewhere to relax and socialise just like anybody else," said Mr Khan yesterday.

"But the presence of alcohol means traditional pubs are off-putting to those who want to follow strict Islamic rulings, so this is the perfect place for them to come.

I'm all for diverse businesses, especially ones that cater to under-represented demographics. And considering Britain is home to around two million Muslims, the concept certainly hits an untapped niche. But at the risk of sounding like a lush, I can't help but agree with Vagabondish: "Why not just call it a café instead?"

Photo: Karam board game, by Domini_ via Flickr

One on One: Rudy Maxa


If you watch public television, you've probably seen the popular show Smart Travels, which our own contributing editor Rudy Maxa has hosted since 2001. In May 2008, the show debuts its sixth season with a fresh title, Rudy Maxa's World, reflecting a new worldwide focus after concentrating heavily on Europe and the Pacific Rim during the program's early years. Prior to his work in television, Maxa spent over three decades as a Washington, D.C., journalist—first with the Washington Post, then Washingtonian magazine. Over the past six years, he's written several stories for National Geographic Traveler. With every job he's held, Maxa has wrangled assignments that have allowed him to travel the world. Amazingly, he still can't get enough of gallivanting about. Here Rudy is interviewed by Keith Bellows, Traveler's editor in chief. Check out the print version of his story in our upcoming July/August issue, and more of Keith's One-on-One interviews online.

Yellowstone and Montana MapGuides

Crown of the Continent MapGuide We always try to keep tabs on what our neighbors here at National Geographic are doing, and so we're excited to share what the folks at the Center for Sustainable Destinations are up to next. One of CSD's many projects is to establish geotourism charters with local communities to help identify, develop, and promote the unique and authentic assets that will attract travelers to their region. Working closely with community partners, they then harness the staff and resources of the National Geographic Maps division to create a unique MapGuide, which, as the name helpfully indicates, is a bit of a guidebook and map in one. I used one while in Baja a few months ago, and thought it was both tremendously helpful and a really fun way to explore a place.

Last month, CSD released their latest MapGuide, "The Crown of the Continent," which spans Alberta, British Columbia, and Montana. Working with a local geotourism alliance, they plotted a slew of fascinating finds like the Bellevue Underground Coal Mine tour (wear miner's helmets!), the Two Medicine Dinosaur Center (fossils!), and Garnet Ghost Town (boo!), plus a bevy of campsites, small B&B's, and handicraft shops. The maps have terrific photographs and tons of information, and even better, they're absolutely free! You can take a peek at the maps online, and order your own at the Crown of the Continent website.

Next up for CSD is a MapGuide on Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Right now, local residents and visitors can nominate for inclusion in the MapGuide landmarks, attractions, activities, events and local businesses that define the region's unique character and distinctive appeal. Nominations may be made between April 15 and June 30, 2008, so send in your favorite spots now!
Image: Crown of the Continent MapGuide

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April 28, 2008

Global Eye: San Francisco

Photo: Palace of Fine Arts

Photographer: Vahid Jahed, from Minden, Nevada.

Getting the Shot: The photo was taken at the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco in 2006. I wanted to take some night photos there. A few swans, accustomed to being fed, approached me and one actually pecked at my camera as it was sitting at the water's edge.

The Details: I used long exposure to capture the background and the built-in flash to capture the swan.

We like the way that Vahid managed to make a make a traditional landmark shot unique. Think your own picture is good enough for Global Eye? Add your photos to our Flickr pool.

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Gettysburg Going Green

Photo: Gettysburg Museum and Visitor Center

Don’t judge a building by its exterior is the lesson learned at the all-new Gettysburg Museum and Visitor Center, which opened April 14. Despite being designed to "blend into the rural Pennsylvania countryside" according to the National Park Service's website, the brand new center is packed full of modern multimedia, and has been designed to meet LEED certification at the silver level. Yes, Lincoln's Gettysburg is getting up to speed and going green.

Located in the Gettysburg National Military Park, the center includes interesting features to accompany the obligatory walk in the battlefield itself. Visitors can explore the center’s 11 exhibit galleries, watch a short film (narrated by Morgan Freeman) that highlights the significance of the 1863 Battle at Gettysburg, peruse 300,000 Civil War artifacts, and check out the expanded museum bookstore for souvenirs. I know I will when I continue my travels through Colonial America.

History lessons and environmental friendliness: What more could this earth conscious history junkie ask for?

Photo: Gettysburg National Military Park

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More Fun Than Lifeguarding: NG Student Expeditions

National Geographic Student Expeditions logo

Climb to the top of an ancient fort in Rajasthan. Snorkel with sea lions in the Galapagos. Spend the night with a family who lives next to the Great Wall of China. Ride a zip line through the rain forest in Costa Rica. Sail to fishing villages in Mali. Learn to drum in Belize. Trek to bubbling mud pots in Iceland. Hone your photography skills with a National Geographic photographer in Granada

Sound tempting?  If you’re in high school (that's the catch), one of these adventures could be yours. National Geographic Expeditions, which is the travel outfitter for the National Geographic Society, has a long history of leading adventurous travelers to some of the world’s most fascinating destinations, and just this year they’ve teamed up with Putney Student Travel to offer trips for high-school students through National Geographic Student Expeditions. Only students completing grades 9 through 12 this year are eligible, and spaces are filling fast, due to a recent front-page article in the Washington Post travel section.

Each three-week expedition will have specific assignments (writing, photography, culture & arts, etc.) under the guidance of a National Geo expert, and takes advantage of our worldwide network of experts. "In Peru, for example, visit the lab of National Geographic grantee and archaeologist Guillermo Cock and hear an account of his ground-breaking discovery of thousands of Inca mummies. Get to know a Maasai elder in Tanzania, and climb a glacier with a local scientist in Iceland. In Beijing, meet with editors of the recently launched Chinese-language edition of National Geographic magazine.

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April 25, 2008

Maryland Day

Photo: Maryland Day 2008 logo NatGeo Traveler researchers are always looking for weekend fun that's authentic and free (see our Free Cities! library), so when senior researcher Meg Weaver spotted this notice about the University of Maryland's annual Maryland Day (Saturday, April 26, from 10 to 4), she emailed it instantly to the rest of us. Kristen Gunderson, a loyal U. Maryland grad, responded with enthusiasm and regret: she's heading off to New York on the Chinatown bus, but she left us some tips for enjoying this festival:

MARYLAND DAY IS SO MUCH FUN! I am so sad I will be missing it this year...if I had remembered, I would have stuck around here this weekend.

Some highlights:
Ice cream from the UMD dairy - UMD is famous for this stuff. It's delicious. There are also rumors that the ice cream is so fatty that it doesn't meet USDA standards and that's why it's only produced on campus and not sold anywhere else. And why it's so gosh darn tasty.

Also, the Maryland cows have windows in them. Yes, that's right. The Ag students cut holes in the sides of some of the cows and installed little portals so that you can actually watch the process of digestion in action in their stomachs. And, on Maryland Day, they open the portals and you can actually stick your hand inside (with a glove, of course). I have never done it. But it's one of our famous attractions.

And there's all sorts of free buttons, stickers, maps, etc. and tons of fun games, music and events. Plus, the campus is gorgeous, especially at this time of year. Get some lunch and eat it on the mall or by the chapel.

From the College Park Metro station there is a free UMD shuttle that will take you right to the heart of campus (the Stamp Student Union). At the Union, don't miss the memorial statue of Jim Henson talking to Kermit the Frog - UMD was his alma mater, where he created his own major: Puppetry. Also downstairs in the Union is the Co-op, which sells delicious free-trade, organic/vegan, sustainably-produced foods. Anyone can volunteer here for food credit. I practically lived here my last year on campus.

So yes, definitely go if you can. :) Eat some ice cream for me.

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See D.C. Culture With Your Feet

WalkingTownDC Washington, D.C., is a great town for walking, although tourists making the long trudge between the Jefferson Memorial and the Capitol on a broiling summer day might disagree. If you're in D.C. this weekend, though, you can take advantage of our brief, glorious spring and visit some fascinating neighborhoods beyond the Mall. On Saturday April 26, and Sunday, April 27, Cultural Tourism DC is hosting its annual WalkingTownDC weekend, offering free walking tours of 18 different neighborhoods, with 80 free guided walks, and guided bike rides too, led by experts who know these neighborhoods inside out.

For most tours, all you need to do is show up at the right time at the designated starting point, but for some you need a reservation. Check the detailed schedule and pick the walk you want. In Northeast D.C., walk the history of Brookland, a one-time trolley suburb. In Northwest, find the 19th-c. village vestiges of Old Mount Pleasant, now a vibrant multi-ethnic melange. Stroll Logan Circle, "the city’s only unaltered Victorian residential district." Explore the alleys of D.C. with Richard Layman of Rebuilding Place in the Urban Space blog.

The very popular DC Green Buildings EcoTour on Saturday is already full, but if you register you'll be on the waiting list for the next one (they run roughly five times a year). This is a bike tour that visits ten local LEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) certified green buildings. Led by Scott Pomeroy, the environmental programs manager for Downtown DC BID, the tour begins and ends at our own National Geographic Society headquarters (our campus was the first to gain LEED certification in the city). Reservations required; go to www.WholenessforHumanity.com or call 202-686-9813 to get on the waiting list. This bike tour meets and ends at National Geographic's blooming courtyard (check out the Trash People display), and includes a free eco-friendly lunch. Need we say more?

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Cinematic Road Trip: Kansas

John Ur clicks his heels and takes us to Kansas for this week's issue of Cinematic Road Trip.

Crtkansas_2

Think of the words "Kansas" and "movie." What's the immediate thing that comes to mind? If you're like 99.9 percent of Americans, I'd guess that The Wizard of Oz was the first film you thought of. And while the Sunflower State is more than willing to accommodate your instincts for Judy Garland memorabilia, if you’re on the road in Kansas searching for locations from the film, you’re in the wrong spot: The film was shot entirely on set in Culver City, California, and not in Kansas.

Kansas is arguably the symbol of the American Heartland. It contains the geographic center of the lower 48 states and is one of the country’s leaders in agricultural production. This is due to the large amount of flat, arable land in the western two-thirds of the state. The eastern third tends to be a bit more hilly and forested, with more of the big cities located in this trident: Topeka, Wichita, and Lawrence among others.

In Paper Moon, we get to see both areas of the state. In Peter Bogdanovich’s 1973 Great Depression Era period piece, Ryan O’Neal stars with his real-life daughter, Tatum, as Moses and Addie, an unlikely pair of con artists as entertaining to watch as Newman and Redford in The Sting. A novice actress, Tatum O’Neal became the youngest person to ever win an Academy Award when she took home the Best Supporting Actress statue.

Most of the film was shot in Hays, Kansas, a small town off of I-70 about 200 miles due west of Topeka. But the duo also take a road trip of their own. Moses intends to drive Addie to her only known kin in St. Joseph, Missouri. Along the way, Addie quickly picks up on the scams that Moses is running. Their journey takes them through the north-central plains of Kansas, picking up money and tramps and running from the law. At a certain point, they need to get rid of their car, which is now hotly pursued. They end up at a remote farm in the hilly, forested eastern section of the state where Moses has to wrestle a young Randy Quaid for his vehicle. Only in Kansas.

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Picking the Right Guide

When you go to pick out a guidebook, there's always a risk. While you expect to be getting a fantastic compass to help you navigate your travels, you could end up with a poorly-written, out-of-date, or worse, completely fabricated disaster. Luckily, travel writer Andrew Evans, who has written several guidebooks, is here to um, guide us through the buying process.

Photo:travel bookshelf In his recent book “Do Travel Writers Go to Hell?” a very smug Thomas Kohnstamm confesses to accepting bribes, plagiarizing text, and not even visiting the countries he was covering for travel publisher Lonely Planet.  One man’s publicity nightmare is another man’s royalty check, yes, but where does this leave the traveler? How reliable is any one guidebook and how can travelers avoid buying fiction when they’re looking for facts? 

For starters, the popular conception of the travel writer is a myth. We do not run around the world with limitless corporate credit cards getting free spa packages and business-class upgrades. How does it happen? For a new title, I usually travel for at least two to three months in the country, spending 10-12 hours a day doing intensive research. Everything is research, whether I’m noting how long it takes to walk from the train station to the beach or remembering the cleanest bathrooms. Obviously, it’s impossible to see and do everything, but I try my best since nothing beats writing about a place firsthand. As backup, I collect every scrap of paper I can find on-site:  tourist brochures, café menus—even phone books. The Internet is a great secondary source once I’m home and writing things up. 

No (gasp!), guidebooks are rarely fact-checked—at least not in the way that magazines and newspapers get fact-checked. Authors are contractually liable for the information they submit so the onus is on us to get it right the first time. Proofreaders and regional experts will review the manuscript to check for inconsistencies and blatant misrepresentation but they can’t vet every phone number or hotel review. Instead, sections of the book are spot-checked to get a sense of the overall level of accuracy. If it passes the test it goes to press. 

Enter you, the savvy traveler in search of the perfect guide. Here’s a few tips to help you find what you’re after:

Be a Picky Eater: Guidebooks are like restaurants—sometimes the better ones are harder to find. Resist the temptation to grab the first thing you see. Before you head to the bookstore, check online to see every title that's available.

Check the Sell-By Date: Start with today’s date and subtract one year. That’s about the last time the author was in country for any given title, even the ones with next year’s date on the cover (e.g. France 2009). Always check the date of first publication on the inside cover and verify if subsequent dates represent actual updated editions of just reprints or partial updates. A quality guidebook has a lifespan of two to three years, after which it usually needs to be fully updated.   

How Many Travel Writers Does It Take To Screw In a Lightbulb? Just one, sometimes two. Generally, the more writers involved in a single guide, the lower the quality. Varied experience and different voices mean that a separate editor has to massage the text into a single book and risk losing authenticity. The exception to the rule are multi-author books to huge countries like Russia, China, Brazil, or Indonesia—in which case you should really consider buying a region-specific guidebook. Avoid the thick, 1,000+ page tomes that are too “all-inclusive” to carry any sustenance. Most of these are cut-and-paste jobs gleaned from smaller guidebooks.

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April 24, 2008

Down by the River

Contributing Editor Andrew Nelson rounds out his week-long tour of San Antonio's Fiesta with the big shebang: the River Parade.

Photo: Fiesta Float

The ambulance chasers and personal injury lawyers must love the River Walk, San Antonio's spectacularly successful network of leafy, landscaped pathways lacing its river flowing through downtown.

Few barriers, rails or poles separate pedestrians from the river. Any one can fall in. And sometimes, after a few margaritas from the many restaurants clustered along its banks, they do. I've heard they retrieve a mountain of muddy cell phones from the depths each year when they drain and clean it.

It's really unique. My hotel room at the Riverwalk Vista, a 17-room inn housed in a 19th century grocer's building, frames the river with its huge, 8-foot-tall windows. I spent more than a few minutes gazing down below at the meandering crowds and the tourist barges passing by. It's better than movies-on-demand, with nothing added to your bill at checkout.

So I'm a little nervous when my friends and I arrive at a crowded private party to view the floats at the River Parade at San Antonio's Fiesta. We're part of the 250,000-strong crowd hanging off bridges and along the promenades hoping for a glimpse of a Texas Cavalier.

What's a Texas Cavalier?  (find out after the jump...)

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TV or Not TV?

Hotel Central Editor Susan O'Keefe wants your take on televisions in hotel rooms. Is bigger really better?

Photo: Television Travel Agent Central recently reported that Sandy Lane, the luxury resort located in St. James, Barbados, where celebrity guests have included Mick Jagger, Frank Sinatra, and Jackie Kennedy, will close on August 31 and reopen on October 3, to undergo a $6-million makeover. Renovations to the hotel will include new outdoor patio furniture, new guest room bedding and drapes, and TVs—all 112 rooms and suites will upgrade from huge 55-inch TVs to 70-inch monsters.

Reader, I don't know about you, but if I'm going to the Caribbean, I'm not really planning on spending much time in my room, let alone flipping through channels with a remote. Have we gotten so caught up in bigger being better when it comes to flat-screens and plasmas, that 15 inches will really make a difference, especially in a bedroom?

Don't get me wrong, I like my TV when I'm traveling for business and sitting in my characterless room eating bland food from room service. And I like giant TV screens during events like the Super Bowl, when I can leave the family room to refill the chip bowl and still see the game from my kitchen. But the Caribbean is a getaway. It's where you go to dig your toes in the sand, plunge into the crystal-clear water, and lounge beachside for long periods of time with a fruity drink and a good book. At Sandy Lane, outdoor recreation includes kayaking, sailing, state-of-the-art golf courses, tennis, and swimming with Hawksbill turtles that play and feed along the inshore reef. So, tuck the TV remote in a drawer and get outside. But I wonder, what amenity must you have in a hotel room? Mini bar? Stationery with the hotel's logo? Slippers? Q-tips? We'd like to know what you can't live without, whether you're at a resort in the Caribbean or a motel on the side of the road.

Sneak Peek: Everyday Explorers

Photo: Everyday Explorers Psst...National Geographic is on the verge of releasing an exciting new video site called Everyday Explorers. But first we need your help!

Everyday Explorers is a user-generated video site (sort of like YouTube, only better!) where you can upload your own videos in one of four categories:

- Wildlife and Pets (anything animal-related)
- Weather (storms, sunny days, snow, etc.)
- Favorite Places (travel destinations, or your own backyard)
- Green Tips (anything related to promoting a healthy environment)

We know you readers must have some amazing video footage out there, so see this as a chance to get your videos out to the world and share them with people interested in exploring the planet. At the moment, we are starting from scratch, which means that this is a good chance for your video to get a head start on the rest of the public. So go online to upload your video clips and help us get things rolling.

The Everyday Explorers site goes live this May, so stay tuned for more information. Thanks!

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Exploring Armenia

Friend of IT Kara Marston works at ngm.com and sent us this post about Armenia, where she volunteered for a media company last year promoting the movie "A Story of People in War and Peace."

Armenia

Looking for a new exciting adventure? Many people can’t even find Armenia on a map, making it all the more appealing for the adventurous traveler. After spending three months living in this gorgeous country, I can offer some of the best places to explore:

1. Yerevan: The capital of Armenia is by far the most modernized part of Armenia. In the summer, outdoor cafés and restaurants are open late—filled with live music, dancing, and of course, delicious food. I highly recommend Parvana, a wonderful restaurant on the Hrazdan River.

With Yerevan as your base, you can easily visit Echmiadzin, the Holy See of the Armenian Apostolic Church, as well as the Hellenistic temple of Garni, and Geghard, an extraordinary monastery that is partly carved out of a canyon. Be sure not to miss the Genocide Museum and the Erebuni Fortess, which dates from the 8th century B.C.

Wondering where to stay? My favorite hotel was Congress Hotel, but hostels and other lodging options are available.

2. Dilijan: One of the most beautiful places in Armenia, this town is surrounded by a nature reserve. Dilijan, often compared to Switzerland, is a nature lover’s dream, known for its scenic views and extensive wildlife. Dilijan is one Armenia’s many regions that offers horseback riding, hiking, biking, and more.

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April 23, 2008

Traveler Seminars: In Denver this Weekend

Photo: Maasai photographer

In our upcoming May/June issue of Traveler, Senior Editor Dan Westergren (the man behind Photo Tips from Dan) gives us an incredible view of the North Pole, and Traveler photographer Pete McBride goes deep into Guatemala to expose its cultural splendors. So we're excited to announce that when National Geographic Traveler hosts our Adventure Travel Seminar this Sunday April 27, in Denver, Colorado, both Westergren and McBride will be on hand to give you the tools to capture your own incredible journeys on film.  Westergren and McBride will be teaching the same photo seminar in Seattle on May 18.

Uncover the secrets of how to photograph not just as a passive observer, but as a part of the action — whether you hike, bike, ski or climb. They'll show you their solutions to the problems they encounter while on assignment in the most unforgiving environments – everything from shooting in low light to lessons in how not to break your camera. Register now to take part in the action!

Photo: Maasai tribesmen inspect Dan Westergren's camera, by Dan Westergren.

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Heavy Medal

Contributing Editor Andrew Nelson offers us a metaphor, or perhaps medalphor, for San Antonio's Fiesta...

Photo: medals Wandering San Antonio during Fiesta Week you'll encounter a lot of people whose jackets, baseball caps and sashes are emblazoned with dozens of brightly colored medals making them look like walk-ons from an opera set in a 19th century Spanish military academy.

Medals are to Fiesta what beads are to Mardis Gras - currency, status symbol and collector's items. They are bartered and sold – even auctioned. One on eBay, a 1941 version, is selling for more than $299.
Other people buy them at San Antonio's official Fiesta Store, but I can't seem to figure out where it is.

San Antonian Christa Emrick was doing Fiesta with a good three dozen hanging from her sash.

"Each group will make one," she says pointing to several. "I've got one from a military organization, an AIDS group, and a German group. You can even make your own," she said fingering an elaborate one set with greenish stones. "This is one I did." The San Antonio Express has a great roundup of all the different kinds.

It's one of the niftiest elements of Fiesta in that anyone can make something and join in the fun. Sure, there's a big social scene – I saw one "king" and his "court" of debutantes roll by in a police-escorted motorcade of gas-guzzling Cadillac Escalades. (No one in that kingdom got the memo about going Green, apparently.) Yet the official Fiesta appears much more accessible in its way than, say, the secret krewes of New Orleans with their exclusive balls, open only to a small group of rich families. That may be because San Antonio is optimistic about its future and remains vibrant economically. Dynamic cities tend to steamroll hidebound customs - but something changing as fast as San Antonio has a real need to keep traditions if only as an anchor in times of great change. So when they pin a medal on you at Fiesta, they're actually helping to pin down the past, securing it in a city that is speeding headlong into to the future.

For more information about Fiesta visit www.fiesta-sa.org. For visiting San Antonio head to www.visitsanantonio.com.

Photo: Andrew Nelson

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A Sting More Painful than the Bad Exchange Rate

Photo: jellyfish

Just as we’re getting antsy to squish our bare feet into sunkissed, silky sand for some carefree lazing on the beach (anywhere! and soon!), the Economist had to go and dampen our summer pinings. Apparently, the painful sting of the euro’s exchange rate isn’t all you have to dread in the Mediterranean: An “unprecedented swarm of jellyfish” is heading to Europe.

We’ll let the Economist be the painful messenger:

The mauve stingers (also known as Pelagia noctiluca) have been breeding in the water throughout the winter, and are now ready for an assault on the beaches of Spain and the Mediterranean.

Masses of jellyfish are an increasingly common nuisance, not just in Spain, but all around the world. Spectacular blooms have been reported in Japan, Namibia, Alaska, Venezuela, Peru and Australia. And since 2000, the Gulf of Mexico has been suffering from an invasion of monster Australian spotted jellyfish (Phyllorhiza punctata), which are fouling fishing nets and upsetting the shrimpers.

Lucas Brotz, an oceanography graduate student at the University of British Columbia’s Fisheries Centre, says the increase in jellyfish populations means human encounters with the painful little blobs are bound to be more prevalent. Of course, this is hardly news. The Mediterranean has been on “jellyfish alert” for the past couple of years. Beaches on some of the region’s most popular resorts have even been forced to close. Most scientists blame higher sea temperatures brought on by global warming, as well as overfishing, for the jellyfish influx.

Continue reading "A Sting More Painful than the Bad Exchange Rate" »

Global Eye: Kjosarsysla, Iceland

Its_written_in_the_stars

"It's Written in the Stars," Kjosarsysla, Iceland

Photographer: Lárus Sigurðarson, Reykjavik, Iceland

Details: Canon 5D and a 24mm 1.4L Canon Lens; exposure 20 seconds; f/2; ISO 1600

Getting the Shot: Well you know the saying "the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence," right? Here in Iceland the borealis is pretty common from late September to early April so if you just bother going out night after night, you are bound to eventually stumble upon some to photograph. Only trouble really is having patience, a lot of nights are spent not seeing any borealis. That and making sure to have something else but borealis in the shot, like an interesting foreground.

We like how Larus captured several shooting stars in the midst of the colorful sky. Have you got a photo that is worthy of Global Eye? Add it to our Flickr pool. And got some love for IT writer Katie? Vote for her essay on Reykjavik over at Gridskipper.

Photo: Lárus Sigurðarson via Flickr

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April 22, 2008

IT's Earth Day Every Day

Photo: Earth by NASA You didn't think we'd let Earth Day slip by without making a mention, did you? Here at National Geographic Traveler, and at Intelligent Travel, we like to subscribe to the Earth Day, Every Day line of thinking. Sustainable and authentic travel is our beat, our locally-sourced bread and organic butter, if you will. So instead of celebrating the single day, here's a sampling of some of our favorite posts that celebrate and support the planet from different parts of the globe.

  • WWOOF! No, it's not a stuttering dog, it's the program that let's you receive free room and board on farms in exchange for helping with the harvest. Getting close to nature, knowing where your food comes from, and living with locals? All amazing in our book.
  • Couchsurfing - Need a place to crash? Join their network and find a world of friends willing to let you cozy up on their couch.
  • Up Close to the Proximity Hotel - This North Carolina hotel is working to be the first to gain LEED Platinum Certification. Former Traveler intern Ali Ogden interviews the manager in her video visit.
  • Bears and Bulbs - How many tour companies does it take to change Manitoba's light bulbs? Just one apparently, and outfitter Natural Habitat Adventures offered to supply the city that plays host to their polar bear tours.
  • Organic New Zealand - Need to know where you can find stinky cheese in Omaru, NZ? This impressively thorough website has got you covered for sustainable eats, hotels, and experiences.
  • Maasai Inc. - African lodge owners partner with the Maasai community to repopulate the dwindling wildlife and help stimulate the local economy. These partnerships are setting great examples.
  • Masdar City - Will the world's first solar city in Abu Dhabi be more about hype or hope?
  • Go for the Gold  - Get smart about getting to Beijing for the summer Olympics.
  • NatureAir - Want to really feel good about flying? Book a seat on NatureAir, the Costa Rican airline that's the planet's only zero-emission carrier.

Poke through more our archives for items that show smart thinking. And have a Happy Earth Day!

Photo: NASA Goddard Space Flight Center, Image by Reto Stöckli

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Highbrows and Humidity

Photo: San Antonio Fiesta Arts Fair The cloistered campus of the Southwest School of Art & Craft in downtown San Antonio is a far cry from the raucous, Rabelaisian crowd that attended the Fiesta Oyster Bake on the city's west side. Here, set amidst 1851-era limestone buildings, the flesh is mostly covered, more apt to display Ralph Lauren polo ponies than tattoos. The art on display is highbrow, but the humidity's even higher - it is hot today - so people are lingering in the cool shade of the oak-shaded courtyards where fountains splash, just as the Ursuline nuns must have done when this was their convent 150 years ago. Today's event is the 35th annual art fair, and the artists are of a national caliber – spread out inside the complex in bright tents that display their oil paintings, ceramics and sculpture. The fair's getting crowded.  I'm worried someone might elbow a glass vase (the prices here aren't cheap) and be out a few grand.

No one cares. The 12,000 or so participants are all too busy gabbing with friends, sipping drinks and tapping their feet to the music of the Sisters Morales, a pair of soulful singer-songwriters up on a stage between a pair of French-colonial-styled buildings. The folkies are pumping out a catchy Spanish ballad that the crowd adores.

"They say Austin's got the 'cool'," someone says, "but San Antonio's got the soul."

And, it seems, few travelers know about it. Fiesta is a big deal in the city, of course, and throughout Texas, but it is nowhere near as popular – nor as overrun – as Mardis Gras. It's local, it's neighborhood and it's authentic.

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NYC with Teens

Traveling with tweens and teens to New York? Senior editor Norie Quintos shares some tips and tricks from a recent trip to the Big Apple with her 12- and 14-year-old sons.

Photo: Streetcart

Limit the number of museums and choose them carefully. Just because there are dozens of world-class museums in the city doesn’t mean you have to see them all. Whiny teens are worse than whiny toddlers. I’d read about a temporary exhibit at the Guggenheim by the Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang, who worked with exploding gunpowder and cars hanging from the ceilings. Bingo. We hit the museum on Friday evening, when admission was pay what you want (I noticed most New Yorkers weren’t paying anything, so we didn’t either.)

Central Park is good for any age. Try to go with a plan, say, to catch the remote-controlled sailboats in the Conservatory Water or skate dancers in the Bandshell. Because my kids are Beatles fans, we went on a John Lennon pilgrimage to Strawberry Fields and the Imagine mosaic, then walked over to the Dakota building where the singer was shot. Plan your visit with the interactive map of Central Park.

Brooklyn_bridgeDo something active. We walked across the Brooklyn Bridge, a leisurely 45-minute stroll. It’s one of the world’s most iconic spans and there is a separate path for walkers and bikers, so you aren’t inhaling car fumes. You can view the Statue of Liberty from here. Tips: To avoid constantly craning your neck looking back at the incomparable Manhattan skyline, take the subway to Brooklyn and walk towards Manhattan. Also, be sure to stay off the bikers’ lane, lest you get clipped or cursed at by speeding cyclists.

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Tour Guide: Homeless World Cup

Photo: Homeless World Cup, 2007
Scotland wins the Homeless World Cup 2007 in Copenhagen

For those who can't wait for the soccer World Cup in 2010 in South Africa, there's a different type of World Cup going on this year Down Under.

This year, Melbourne is hosting the annual the Homeless World Cup, an international event featuring 500 footy players from 48 countries. The catch? Every one of the competitors is homeless.

The Homeless World Cup began in 2003, when The Big Issue magazine founder Mel Young decided it was time to take action and change the lives of homeless people worldwide through an internationally loved sport. According to Young, 75 percent of homeless participants give up drug and alcohol dependence and find jobs or go to school after the competitions are over. About 25,000 homeless people participate in soccer events around the world before the top teams are invited in attend the annual World Cup.

Voluntour group Hands Up Holidays offers a 17-day trip (November 29-December 15) that combines sightseeing on Australia's east coast with volunteering at the Homeless World Cup. From November 29 to December 7, participants will work at the World Cup, doing various projects ranging from coordinating the media and catering to working in the locker rooms. After the World Cup is over, participants will get one day to enjoy Melbourne before flying to Sydney for a few days and then on to Cairns (to see the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest). The voluntour adventure officially ends on December 15, with options to extend your stay (about $3,200).

Hands Up Tours offers plenty of other voluntour trips around the world, like teaching English in China or Romania, helping AIDS/HIV relief in Ghana, and even combining honeymoons with volunteer projects!

For more information visit HandsUpHolidays.com.

Photo: Homeless World Cup

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April 21, 2008

The Luck of the Suck

Contributing editor Andrew Nelson is in San Antonio this week celebrating Fiesta, and he'll be sending us dispatches from the road all this week.

Photo: oysters How hard is it to eat a Texas-sized bucket of baked oysters? Really hard, I'm discovering. Each mollusk is the size of your fist, shut tighter than Area 51, they mock my feeble efforts to pry them apart.

I'm at the 92nd annual Oyster Bake, one of the kick-off events Fiesta San Antonio, a ten-day-long party that is to the Texas city what Mardis Gras is to New Orleans: colorful parades and raucous revelry marked by too much food, too much drink and way, way too much fun.

Around me swirl many of the 70,000 people who will pour into the campus of St. Mary's University on the city's west side, home of one of the USA's oldest and proudest Mexican communities.  Tonight San Antonians of all backgrounds are going to drink, dance, listen to Tejano and rock and roll, and wolf down entire beds of shellfish. This is their party, and San Antonio, unlike Louisiana's Crescent City, appears to have kept the fun to themselves. Few travelers outside of Texas it seems have heard of Fiesta. But while it's on, America's seventh largest city can think of little else.

Fiesta San Antonio began in 1891 as a way to honor the battles of the Alamo and San Jacinto. It's evolved into 100 different events, which include over-the-top balls held by San Antonio's Old School Old Money elites, spectacular parades and satirical mockery of pretense in a counter-cultural Fiesta Cornyation. Here's a guide to the whole shebang.

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Eco-Adventure Weekend in Wales

Former Traveler intern and friend of IT Lisa Lombardi is studying abroad in London this semester, but she recently escaped away to Wales for an adventure-packed weekend.

Photo: Surfing in Wales

After five weeks of living in London, this Midwestern girl was ready for a break from the glamour of metropolitan life, so I booked a weekend adventure trip with the Preseli Venture outdoors group and headed to the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park in Wales. As promised, the Welsh coast wilderness was the perfect remedy for the sensory overload of big-city living.

Among the many trips and options Preseli offers (including corporate retreats and stag and hen parties) is the outdoor adventure weekend, short enough to experience without taking time off and reasonable enough in price that even I, the lowly college student, can indulge. Guests can try out two excursions, choosing between mountain biking, sea kayaking, surfing and coasteering (scaling and jumping off of sea cliffs). For the third outing of the weekend, there is a hike along the stunning coastal cliffs.

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A Taste of Oz

Last week, I took a trip to Australia while waiting for my lunch to heat up in the microwave. Standing in the NG cafeteria, I noticed with surprise the package the man next to me was holding.

“Oh my gosh, you have Tim Tams!”

My new friend grinned and revealed to me that he got these Aussie cookie treats (known in the Land Down Under as “chocolate biscuits”) at D.C.'s E Street Cinema. We shared recollections of eating this heavenly délice across the world, and he gave me one. At the first bite, my memory rocketed back to the tastes of teatime at my elementary school in Sydney.

So I thought I’d share a few of my favorites with you, IT readers. What can't be found here in the U.S. can be purchased online and shipped, although my suggestion is to head to Australia and try them firsthand. For a true Aussie experience, here are some snack foods you just shouldn’t miss:

Tim_tam_coffee Tim Tams. By far the most well-known and delicious chocolate biscuit, Tim Tams are produced by the Arnott's company. They come in flavors like Chewy Caramel, classic Dark, and Latte, and share a general theme of two crispy wafers surrounding a creamy filling, the whole thing covered in a layer of velvety chocolate. You can even use the biscuit (or “biccie”) as a straw to suck up hot chocolate or milk—a trick known as the "Tim Tam Slam."

Lift and Squash. Although it sounds like an uncomfortable sport, these are actually two of the country’s most refreshing drinks. Lift is a lemon-flavored soda similar to Sprite, although it’s more flavorful, being sweetened with real sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup. Squash is Australia’s answer to lemonade, and it can vary depending on where you get it.

Smith’s Potato Chips, Chicken Flavor—Chicken-flavored potato chips, you ask? To which I answer a resounding yes. This equivalent of America’s Lay’s company produces several varieties of chips, including most of the standards, but the chicken flavor is perhaps the most authentic. Its sweet and spicy saltiness is something you won’t find in the U.S., although a somewhat similar chicken taste can be found in America’s Chicken in a Biskit cracker.

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