Cambodia's "Unsettling" Developments

[UPDATE: The AP has a story that looks not only at the issues facing the temples at Angkor Wat, but the monks who reside in the area as well. The author quotes a local prince about the influx of tourists: "For many tourists, coming to Luang Prabang is like going on safari, but our monks are not monkeys or buffaloes."]

Renovation workers warn that water table damage in Angkor Wat could enable the temples to slowly sink

After long years of internal strife at the hands of the militant group the Khmer Rouge, tourism to Cambodia is now booming, with over 2 million visitors arriving last year. But, as we have noted before, a sudden influx of tourists can been a mixed blessing, especially when the necessary oversight is not in place to help stem the surge.

So a recent piece in the Independent did little to assuage our fears for the region. Writer Rob Sharp described the slew of problems facing Angkor Wat, the massive, intricately-carved sandstone temples which are a World Heritage Site, and are now on every tourists' must-see list. Sharp writes:

According to heritage experts carrying out restoration work at the temple, which is one of the biggest sets of religious ruins in the world, a plethora of new hotels, cashing in on the country's near-exponential rise in tourist numbers, is sapping gallons of water from beneath nearby urban areas. They say this could upset the delicate foundations on which Angkor Wat sits and could lead to parts of it—including its famous celestial apsara, or carved nymphs—taking an unheavenly tumble to earth.

Similar unsettling (pardon the pun) trends were seen in Indonesia two years ago, and restoration workers warn that if the idols start to fall, tourists will lose interest, which makes it even more important to promote sensible growth. And the effects of mass tourism aren't limited to Angkor Wat. They're being felt at other historical sites nearby, from Siem Riep, where guesthouses have cropped up like mushrooms and tour-bus exhaust is blackening stone facades, to the hilltop temple of Phnom Bakheng, where sandstone carvings are being worn down by the nearly 3,000 visitors who trek up its steps each day.

With this (frankly, depressing) news, we were glad to hear that Cambodia has made plans to expand their cultural heritage and eco-tourism options in the country, and thus redirect some of the heavy traffic that Angkor is experiencing. Tourism officials announced plans to promote the Preah Vihear temple as a cultural destination and to develop roads and infrastructure to siphon off some of the flow. We just hope that with this development comes the necessary oversight, so that we don't have to worry about any tumbling nymphs anytime soon.

Read More: The group Heritage Watch is working to protect the antiquities in Cambodia and are partnering with villagers to develop sustainable tourism opportunities. Check out their list of Heritage Friendly Tourism supporters and businesses who are working with them to promote authentic options.

In Tribute: Much of Cambodia's tourism industry today can be tied back to the work of Dith Pran, a New York Times interpreter and photographer who worked to expose the atrocities that the Khmer Rouge were committing in his country; his life story was eventually the subject of the film, The Killing Fields. Mr. Dith passed away this weekend after a lifetime of speaking out against genocide, all while he continued to shoot photographs that captured the life New York City. I was lucky enough to work with him on a story this past summer, and he was charming, inquisitive, and full of life. The Times sat down with him before he died, speaking with him for their "The Last Word" series. It's a beautiful tribute to his life, and to a place that he loved so dearly.   

 

Photo: Fredrik Nyberg via the Intelligent Travel Flickr pool

Comments

[pam]

We visited Cambodia in February and were gobstruck both by the wonder of it (wow, what a great place!) and the sheer quantity of humans climbing all over Angkor Wat. I couldn't believe how crappy a job the mgmt company is doing at the temple complex - the diesel buses sit and idle their engines for hours, there's no enforcement around the "keep out" areas, and everyone is pawing the sandstone apsaras because they are so touchable...oh, it's just a heartbreaking mess. Siem Riep's weird suburban sprawl is no help, but forgive me, forgive me, I had to see those temples just like everyone else did, I just HAD to, so I can die in peace.

There was no way I could have stayed home and NOT seen Angkor ...I don't know what a traveler is supposed to do.

[das]

Angkor Wat ... Luang Prabang ... huh?

[Cambodia]

To read the latest news from Cambodia, visit the website : http://www.netvibes.com/cambodia

[EM SARUN ( ANDY)]

Cambodia is the very good country i had been and safty with wonderful temple and people, so if you come it will never want to bring you away, it is so attractive. Angkor Wat, Sihanoukville,Phnom penh, and other places in Cambodia are very peaceful beauty.

[ANDY]

CAMBODIA-ANGKOR WAT

DOT TRAVEL (CAMBODIA). Is a Cambodian business created by a very organized and highly experienced man who, before starting this business in April 2006, had been working in the travel business as a tour guide for the past nine years?
OUR MISSION: It is our goal and desire to introduce global travelers to the beauty that is Cambodia. As we evolve, one of our most important missions is to share a portion of our profits with Cambodia’s numerous orphaned and economically-deprived children.
We are at DOT TRAVEL (CAMBODIA). Reflect the entrepreneurial spirit of young Cambodians. We are determined to thoughtfully represent Cambodia and her people. Through This website we are pleased to be able to introduce ourselves, our services, and tourism in Cambodia to those with whom we hope to do business in the near future. Thank you for visiting our website and WELCOME TO OUR HOME!
Why book with the middleman when you are able to come directly to the professional we use?

[Dennis]

CAMBODIA-ANGKOR WAT

When we arrived a friend took us around in Siem Reap and showed us Angkor Wat. What a great place. I hope, the next time when we visit Cambodia, we will have more time. And be sure that we try to contact you in advance and ask you to be our guide again. Thanks for the informative evening and for arranging with your friend. Have a good time! And if you should come to Europe one day, please do not hesitate to contact us.www.dotcambodia-travel.com

[www.dotcambodia-travel.com/ VISITING CAMBODIA]

Angkor wat is one of the world heritage to explore the Hidden country and nice people with friendly people.

ALL THE BEST, ANDY