Intelligent Travel

IT's Fishy

As much as we like food, IT tries to stay healthy. Each day for lunch, Jessie sticks to vegetarian concoctions of chickpeas and spinach, while Emily generally fills up on $4 salads from the NGS cafeteria. We do this so that when we travel, we can eat what we want—be it cheesy tacos or key lime pie. Here, Emily writes about one such indulgence (there were many!) from her trip to Mississippi:

While traveling, I'm on a quest for the unique, especially when it comes to food. So, when my hosts told me about Jerry's Catfish House in Florence, Mississippi, I pleaded that we go. I mean, how many times in my life would I have a chance to go inside a giant concrete igloo, filled with more than 350 other people dining on all-you-can-eat plates of catfish? The idea was compelling—the experience even more so. We arrived early on a Saturday night—Jerry's is about 20 miles south of Jackson, just off Highway 49.  According to my hosts, we were lucky we didn't have to wait. 'On Friday nights, the line can reach out to here,' said Arnold, pointing to a spot 100 feet or so from the entrance, 'On those nights, we just turn around and go home.'

Gas Relief

Planning a summer road trip? If you've filled up your tank lately, you might be reconsidering with prices soaring above $3 per gallon. IT has tracked down some ways to minimize pains at the pump.

Hotels.com is offering $30 gas rebates on minimum two-night hotel stays between now and Sept. 9, 2007. Book your hotel by July 2 to get the deal and the money will appear on your credit card after your stay. You can also earn up to $50 in fuel credit if you book your vacation rental through ResortQuest. They throw in a road atlas and car cooler to sweeten the deal, available through November 1. In a similar promotion, Choice Hotels International is offering Choice Privileges members the opportunity to earn a $50 gas card after three separate stays in selected Choice brand hotels between June 1 and August 16. Participating hotels include Comfort Inn, Comfort Suites, Quality Inn, Sleep Inn, and Cambria Suites. Also check BedandBreakfast.com's free gas promotions for deals nationwide. For example, The Victorian Ladies B&B in Newport, Rhode Island, offers $50 or $100 gas discounts for two or three weeknight stays through September.

If, however, you've been reconsidering your road trip because you've been reading the news, do the eco thing and leave your car at home, avoiding the pump altogether. BedandBreakfast.com has a section on Eco Escapes with many B&Bs providing free airport pickup, a location within walking distance of area attractions, and bike/canoe rentals.

Solar, So Good

Three cheers for Marriott's Residence Inn West Orange in New Jersey!  It claims to be the first solar powered hotel in New Jersey. Says TravelPost.com:

Installed on the inn's southward-facing rooftops, the solar electric system produces power that meets about one-fifth of the hotel's total electricity needs. Over the next 30 years, the hotel's setup will reduce carbon emissions by 3,000 tons, says the Solar Center, an energy company that designed the system. That's the equivalent of planting about 43 acres of trees.

The hotel is also non-smoking, a decision we heartily applaud.  Here's hoping more hotels follow in their carbon footprints.

Entranced by Ensenada

The challenge of working at a travel magazine is resisting the constant temptation to travel. National Geographic Traveler staffer Mary Beth LaRue likes to divvy up her vacation days—jetting off for long weekends in New York, Jamaica and good ol' Iowa—rather than taking a single two-week trip in the middle of the year. Her most recent jaunt landed her in Ensenada, Mexico:

Tickets to San Diego were about $100 cheaper than those to Tijuana, and since it's only 90 minutes from there to Ensenada, saving the money was a no-brainer. I flew overnight, meeting with my friend Francis after arriving in the morning. We took a $1.50 trolley ride to the border and walked across. It was my first visit to Mexico, and I couldn't believe how simple it was to cross over.

Internet Itinerary: The Cool Hunter

Chocolate generally quells our wandering cravings, but every once in a while, IT needs something more. On days of such lust, we turn to the Internet and find ourselves scrolling through post after post of eye candy in the travel section of the Cool Hunter. True to its name, the site aggregates everything that's "cool" in the world of urban living, fashion, travel, design, and technology; there's some text, but it's the pictures that beguile. Scanning through the big, colorful photos of swank hotels in London, aerial views of Maldivian resorts, spas in Switzerland, and other outrageously trendy spots, we find ourselves a bit appalled that places like these actually exist—and then start dreaming up ways to visit them. (At the moment, we're concocting a scheme to sleep in this Gehry-designed hotel in Alava, Spain). IT bemoans the fact the travel section is rarely updated. Not that that keeps us from looking at the same pictures over and over again. We're addicted.

Beach Bargains

Half of IT is headed to the beach for Memorial Day weekend—lucky for Emily, she's staying with friends in their timeshare. But for those of you paying your own way, we've located an article on Smarter Travel (thanks Gadling) with a list of five hidden, affordable beach destinations. They suggest:

Anna Maria Island, Florida The hidden beach destination Floridians escape to, Anna Maria Island has somehow managed to keep condo towers, all-fast-food chains, amusement parks, and glitzy mega-resorts off its shores. In fact, no construction on this seven-mile [11-kilometer] long barrier island on Florida's Gulf Coast is more than three stories tall, Subway is the only franchise, and 60 percent of its land is open beach. And, it's affordable, especially in the summer. You can rent vacation homes with water views and pools for well under $1,000 per week and get seafood entrees at beachfront restaurants for under $15.

Horsing Around on Assateague

IT's not so sure we'd want this poking around our tent at night, but National Geographic Traveler senior editor Norie Quintos has only good things to say about her recent weekend camping with the horses:

They look more like docile donkeys than Lipizzaner stallions, but never mind, the wild horses that roam through Assateague Island have a long and storied past. Legend has it that the horses escaped a Spanish galleon shipwrecked on the treacherous Atlantic shores. A less romantic explanation is that they're descended from horses brought to the island in the late 17th century by local landowners wanting to circumvent fencing laws. Today, visitors can see them or evidence of them (watch where you step) on both the Maryland and Virginia sides of this 37-mile (59.5-kilometer) barrier island. We spent a weekend tent camping on the pristine beaches of the National Seashore, and ran into them walking on the dunes, hiking near the marshes, even heading to the Port-a-Potty. While people should definitely keep their distance—the fillies may kick or bite—an encounter with a horse is less panic-producing than a run-in with a bear.

Ode to Cologne

Just like our mothership, IT sometimes lets stories gestate for a while. Or, at least that's our excuse for why Emily is only now—nine months after her return—birthing details about her trip to Cologne. Without further ado, she writes:

For phobics, one take-off is significantly better than two. Thus, when I found out I could take Continental's nonstop, overnight flight from Newark to Cologne, my desire to see the Rhineland outweighed my fear of spiraling headfirst into the ocean. To my chagrin, the 7.5 hour flight was easy, as was the transition from airport to destination: Within 30 minutes of landing, I was off the plane, through customs, into a cab, and standing directly in front of the city's Gothic icon—Cologne Cathedral. Conveniently perched across the street was our hotel, the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Lavish by anyone's standards, the fact that it was independently owned and a historical landmark (not to mention smack dab in the heart of the city) made it the perfect place, if there is such a thing, to drop $350 per night.

Bio Bliss

IT encourages volunteering—especially if it's for our organization—so come help us take a species inventory of Rock Creek Park this weekend. The 24-hour BioBlitz—hosted by National Geographic and the National Parks Service—will bring together leading scientists (including E.O. Wilson), naturalists, and volunteers of all ages in an attempt to better understand, appreciate, and protect the biological diversity of the 1,783-acre park. Aside from collecting bugs and wildflowers, attendees may also listen to talks by experts, visit displays, and participate in a variety of children's activities. Personally, IT hopes to wade in the creek to find fish and catch bats with nets at night.

Can't make it to D.C. this weekend? National Geographic plans to sponsor a BioBlitz every year in a different city for the next nine years. We'll keep you posted.

The Beauty of Bathing

Assistant researcher Emily Haile recently spent a few days with family in upstate New York. She visited the Roosevelt Baths in Saratoga Springs, and wrote us this blissed-out post:

Roosevelt Baths' classical architecture and the pristine landscape of the surrounding Saratoga Spa State Park make you feel as if you've stepped into an Edith Wharton novel. For $25, you'll get a private room to relax in a golden, hot mineral bath that feels like being immersed in a glass of bubbly—the rising fizz that tickles your skin is said to increase circulation. For an extra $5, add scented oils like Minty Muscle or Adirondack Woods to complement your mood. After 30 minutes, an attendant knocks softly and you are given the option of staying in the tub or spending the last 10 minutes of your treatment lying on a massage table, blissfully wrapped in a warm towel. If soaking in curative waters isn't enough, the spa also offers a variety of services and packages including facials, manicures, scrubs and massages.

Arrive early for your bath—the price includes the use of the spa's facilities for the entire day including a steam room, fitness center, and locker room. For maximum effect, refrain from showering after your mineral bath and instead let the nutrients seep into your skin. The spa leaves you feeling and smelling like a rose–so much so that I didn't even care when I learned that it was recently exposed to be topping off its baths with—gasp—ordinary tap water!

San Antonio Sandbar

IT constantly craves Tex-Mex, and until recently, we never knew that too many tacos, burritos, and beans—smothered in cheese and salsa—(and washed down with several frosty margaritas) could ever be a bad thing. But after several days of such gluttonous eating in San Antonio, Emily had an epiphany (er, stomachache) and ushered her still-hungry family to the most Anti-Alamo establishment possible: The Sandbar Fish House and Market, at 152 E. Pecan St.:

Owned by chef Andrew Weissman—whose tutelage at San Antonio's five-star Restaurant Le Rêve earned him a Best Chef: Southwest nomination at this year's James Beard Awards—the Sandbar reminds you of that magical San-Fran oyster bar scene where small tables are crammed together and loud clanks from plates and glasses echo from wall to wall. We ordered a selection of seafood—tuna sashimi, sea urchin, oysters, lobster bisque, shrimp salad, and ceviche—and asked that the dishes be delivered one at a time. The two-hour process of plate-passing, bite-size eating and Pinot Grigio sipping proved the antidote to our earlier overindulgence…until our waiter set dessert on the table. The chocolate cake was forgettable, but the key lime pie was so impressive I vowed to blog about the place as soon as I returned home. Tart, creamy, explosive, slightly crunchy—I can't do it justice in words.

IT can't quite understand why this gem de la crème doesn't have a website, but we recommend it wholeheartedly. Get there early (but after opening at 5 p.m.)—the place fills up quick.

Reno-vated

Krista Rossow, Traveler's assistant photo editor, recently did her bridesmaidly duty and took three planes to get to Reno for her future sister-in-law's bachelorette party. She thinks she's unlikely to return to "the biggest little city in the world," so IT is honored to share with you the details of her once-in-a-lifetime experience:

Nestled below mountains including the breathtaking Sierra Nevada, Reno itself is an expanse of strip malls, chain restaurants, and neon-laced casinos. Its location, however, makes it a prime destination for outdoor enthusiasts in every season because of its proximity to Lake Tahoe and the great skiing at Heavenly.

We hit the ground running on Friday night, heading to the Eldorado's popular martini bar, Roxy's. This European-bistro-style bar is located in the underground labyrinth connecting three downtown casinos, the Eldorado, Circus Circus, and Silver Legacy.

This Week's Bloggers

Emily King, Traveler's assistant to the editor, is sad that her partner in blog will be moving to Ghana mid-July. Researcher Jessie Johnston says "Shhhh, I wasn't going to tell them yet!"

IT Saw Three Ships Come Sailing In

IT just celebrated its first birthday—and quite frankly, we were shocked we made it this long. So we can't even imagine how overwhelmed Jamestown must feel right now, prepping for its four-hundredth year. They must be so tired!

For the unaware, way back when—May 14, 1607, to be exact—the Powhatan tribe of Virginia Indians saw three English ships come sailing in—and, soon after, watched as the ships' passengers established America's first permanent English settlement, Jamestown. In honor of the settlement's 400th anniversary, Jamestown is throwing a giant party, also known as the America's Anniversary Weekend festival, May 11-13, 2007.

Bob's Hope

Traveler staffers Mary Beth LaRue and Krista Rossow recently spent a day with National Geographic photographer Bob Krist and his wife Peggy in their charming small-town home of New Hope, Pa. MB dishes:

Just an hour north of Philadelphia, New Hope seems like a different planet. As the road winds into town, the scenery changes from forest and farmland to a quaint village with dozens of boutiques and restaurants lining the road. Families and couples stroll down the main drag, stopping for a beer at Havana or into Farley's for a read. It first reminded me of a cross between Portland, Oregon, and Iowa City, but everyone else said it reminded them of Maine.

Honorable Mention: Tuco Tours

National Geographic Traveler researchers talk to a lot of different people. Some of them are helpful. Some of them are not. Some of them are interesting. Some of them talk for an hour about history of the small wooden building we just called to make sure was still standing. When a source is obnoxious, it can be a little frustrating to see their business get good coverage in the magazine, no matter how good a service they provide. Conversely, when a source is super helpful, we always wish we could devote more space to them. Earlier this year, chief researcher Marilyn Terrell researched Andrew McCarthy's "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly" (about spaghetti Western locations in southern Spain) for the April 2007 issue. She had so much fun checking it, she wanted to give a couple column inches to a source that helped her a lot, but wasn't mentioned at all in the original article:

While tracking down info for the story, I discovered a tour company in Almeria, where Sergio Leone shot several of his Dollars Trilogy movies with Clint Eastwood, Eli Wallach, and Lee Van Cleef.  It's called Tuco Tours, after the Eli Wallach character in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly.

I Do… Take You as my Wedding Date

IT has experience with the expensive weekend wedding, as well as the task of convincing a boyfriend to come along. Emily (and date) recently returned from her brother's San Antonio soiree, only partially penniless thanks to the good graces of Southwest Airlines' Internet One-way fares and her parents, who footed the hotel bill. Writer Brett Ashley McKenzie faces a similar situation, but has discovered a more creative way to afford and enjoy her wedding engagements. She writes:

The wedding season is upon us, and yours truly has been invited to half a dozen between now and September. Seeing as how none of the weddings are in the same state, I'm in for a pretty pricey summer. I have a permanent date, which is half the battle. But how do you convince your boyfriend to join you at the weddings of people he hardly knows? And, once he says yes, how do you prevent the ceremonies, expenses, and travel arrangements from taking a toll on your own relationship? The answer: Don't let the weddings be the main event. Turn your wedding trips into weekend getaways that you both can get excited about without breaking the bank.

This Week's Bloggers

Emily King, Traveler's assistant to the editor, thinks it's weird that Iowa City came up twice this week. Researcher Jessie Johnston is taking a week off from mentioning pupusas in blog entries.

Stalk Option Two: Bay Bridge Walk 2007

National Geographic Traveler staffers have an affinity for driving across the Chesapeake Bay. Two of them like it so much, that despite the 1.5 hour commute, they do it daily; others (like our editor-in-chief), just cross it on summer weekends. The 4.35-mile (7-kilometer) bridge, connecting the Baltimore/Washington area to the Eastern Shore, makes for a pretty drive—and for some 40,000 to 60,000 people once each year, a prettier walk. The Bay Bridge Walk, which falls on Sunday, May 6th, is the one day of the year pedestrians are allowed to cross the bridge on foot, and at a discounted rate: $1 versus the average $2.50 toll. Most walkers take two hours to cross; then, when finished, they board a shuttle bus for a ride back to the starting line. IT plans to participate, so those of you looking for an alternative way to stalk a blogger this weekend should keep an eye out for Emily in her red-and-white striped sweater.

Fest Obsessed: Lahaina, Hawaii

IT covered Lahaina's Halloween celebration last October, unaware of the other big festivals one of Maui's top tourist town celebrates. But thanks to Andy Gross, a Denver-based freelance writer who wrote to us about one other such fest, we have learned about several upcoming revelries, which we've listed post post. Andy writes:

We spent Easter weekend in Maui, where the 15th annual Celebration of the Arts  (April 5-8, 2007) was in full swing at the Ritz Carlton, Kapalua, about a 20-minute drive from downtown Lahaina. Dedicated to increasing awareness of the arts, culture, and people of Hawaii, the weekend's events —open to the public, not just Ritz guests—include traditional chanting, hula dancing, speaker panels, parties, arts and crafts stations, and several ceremonies—including the one I attended, the Hiuwai and E Ala E Sunrise Protocol.

Fun With Google

IT has a well-documented love of maps. Add in the fact that one of us essentially googles for a living, while the other can't stop talking about how cool she thinks it would be to work for the anti-evil empire, and it's no surprise that the following discovery on Google Maps made us want to get our blog on immediately.

This fun experiment was presented to us by David Burneston, Traveler's heroic production manager. When you have 30 seconds free, pay a visit to Google Maps and click on Get Directions. In the "Start address" field, type in "New York, NY." In the "End address" field, type in "London, UK." Click the "Get Directions" button or hit enter on your keyboard. Once the directions open, scroll down to number 24. And think about how you too wish you were working with those quirky fun Googlers. (We haven't tested this exhaustively, but it appears to work from anywhere in North America to anywhere in Europe—the trip from Spuzzum, BC, to Pécs, Hungary would apparently take just short of 32 days following Google's instructions. That's one loooong swim.)

IT's Kinetic

Jessie's having a very parental week. Last weekend her dad flew in for a visit (during which he not only attended his first ever major league baseball game, but also ate his first pupusa) and as soon as our intrepid blogger finishes persuading her cat that she's not being replaced, her mother will arrive. It just so happens that this maternal visit coincides with the Baltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race, an event Jessie has been dying to attend since moving to D.C. And so, 16 hours after she flies in from Montreal, IT's grandmother will be whisked north via Amtrak for a day of sculptural shenanigans.